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Raw water/thermostat trouble

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Paul Trakimas
Member
Username: paul_t

Post Number: 10
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I recently installed a new 143 deg thermostat hoping that it would solve my temp issues, but to no avail. The thermostat does not appear to open once the engine comes up to temp. I've had the engine around 170 deg and still no discharge. It seems as though the water will just keep circulating. One modification that is made to the system is a ball valve installed on the recirculating line from the thermostat back to the water pump (installed by previous owner). If I close this valve I would think the water would dead head at the thermostat and not be allowed to reach the exhaust until it was up to temp, but I get great flow out the exhaust when I close this even when the engine is cold. If I leave this valve shut the engine never gets up to temp. I've tested the thermostat, is it possible that my sensing unit/gauge might be bad? Any tips would be great. If there are still demands for thermostat sources, I've found two that carry them among other palmer parts:

The Boatswain's Locker
(949) 642-6800 in Costa Mesa, Ca

Quivira Marine (QMS)
(619) 224-3686 in San Diego, Ca
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Howard E Taylor
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Paul, When the Palmer Engine is cooled by salt water, you probably should not allow the engine temp to exceed 135 degrees, because saltwater becomes very agressive when hot.
My engine on a Morgan 30 sailboat usually ran about 120 degrees F. with salt water and it has been trouble free since 1970.
If you insist on running it hotter, put a control valve on the suction line of the salt water intake.

Because I could not find a vendor for a salt water head gasket, I have converted to fresh water cooling with a salt water heat exchanger.
The engine seems happy at around 165 degrees F.

Howard Taylor
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Brent
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Moyer Marine also sells the thermostats. Be sure to get the early model (part # CSTH_05_60.3).
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 332
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, May 17, 2006 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Have you checked the air bleed line from the top of the cylinder head to the manifold to make sure it is clear? That includes removing the fittings from the cylinder head and manifold to make sure they are not blocked.
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Paul Trakimas
Member
Username: paul_t

Post Number: 11
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Why does the engine require a 143 deg thermostat if it shouldn't be allowed over 135? I cleaned the air bleed line and the fittings very recently. I guess another question I have is when I shut the valve on my recirculating line why do I get discharge out of the exhaust? The thermostat shouldn't allow it until it comes up to temp right? Could it be the way the housing or thermostat is oriented? Also, what if I just let it run a little on the cold side? Thanks guys
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Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 128
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I dunno Paul. First time I ever heard of 135 degrees. My understanding has always been 143 degrees in salt water.

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