Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

Removing the Head

Old Marine Engine » One and Two Cylinder Gas Inboards » Removing the Head « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Len Tate
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am trying to remove the head from a single cylinder four stroke engine -it's an Australian "Clae Fisherman 6". The head is held on with six studs and I've got the nuts off four, and sheared of the other two flush with the head.
I've tried :-
penetrating oil around the studs,
hitting the side of the head near each stud,
driving a cold chisel under the head,
But she won't budge.
Any good ideas out there?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Day
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can you seal all the passages in the cylinder and head that lead to/from the combustion chamber? Fill the combustion chamber full of oil leave no air space and then take a grease gun and use it to build up hydraulic pressure under the head. This assumes the case that the remaining studs are opposite not adjacent to one another. This should start it to move and once that happens relieve the pressure and take a lead hammer and bang the head down on the cylinder and then repeat the process trying to really loosen up the rust around the studs. If that doesn't work then put it in a milling machine and take a two flute milling cutter and in effect drill out the studs. but leave enough so you can use a pipe wrench to unscrew the remnants of the studs. Dont use a twist drill as they can walk use a two flute milling cutter just under the sise of the bore
for the stud.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

peter ogborne
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Len.....I have had this problem and i do sympathise .I took the trouble to make some ''Fox Wedges'' ,ie wedges with only a slight taper ,starting with an almost sharp edge and ending at about 6mm and at least 25mm wide .Make them out of good quality steel and harden them but not too hard . I have eight and i use them only for removing stubborn heads . I find the best hammer to use is a short handled masons Gympie . You will ruin the gasket ,do it gradualy and you will move it
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ernie
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Peters method works real good here in the cold north too. A real heat wave today. Got up to about 15 deg F
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

marks
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Len,

I'm a believer in gentle heat. I think the trick here is to remove the studs.

The way in which I have removed recalitrant studs in the past is to take the electric welder and weld some dags or a nut on top on top of each stud.

The heat travelling down should break the bond and the studs can be relatively easily removed.

Once they are removed the CLAE head is flat and a few good hits working from side to side should free it.

One thing to be aware of is that there were several different CLAE heads for this model with only slight differences in the stud placements. It is quite possible to drive a different model head on with the judicous of a hammer. Hence the suggestion to remove the studs.

Just my two bits worth.

Mark S.

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page

Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
&copy 2005 OldMarineEngine.com, P.O. Box 188, Forest Dale, VT 05745-0188 • Phone: 802-247-4864 • All rights reserved.
   Marine Engine Seloc Repair Manual Lookup Tool

marine gas engine repair and restoration