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Palmer P-60 Coil

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marc_l
New member
Username: marc_l

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2005
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was performing some routine maintenance on my P-60 this weekend, when I pulled the coil wire to check for corosion oil drained out. I assume this is the cooling oil for the coil and that the coil should be replaced. The only identifying marks on the coil are "Standard" and "12V". My question is are all 12v coils the same or what should I ask the parts guy for?
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eddie
Advanced Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 39
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Standard is a brand name for ignition parts. There are two types of coils. Ones that require external ballast and those that do not. You should get one that DOES NOT REQUIRE EXTERNAL BALLAST. To avoid damage to the coil in the future, never leave the ignition on when the engine is not running.
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marc_l
New member
Username: marc_l

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2005
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Is this a part that can be purchased off the shelf at an auto parts store or something that will need to be special ordered. If it can be purchased at an auto parts store how do I relay to them what I need without referring to a make and model of a car?
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eddie
Advanced Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 40
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It should be pretty easy to get at an auto parts store. One problem nowadays is some younger clerks are not to familiar with coils for the old ignition systems. Remember to specify DOES NOT REQUIRE EXTERNAL BALLAST. I was using a Blue Streak brand coil. I'll post the part number on this thread tonight.
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eddie
Advanced Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 41
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Couldn't find part numberon coil but I think it was 15XL ( I'm sure about the 15 not sure about the letters)
Other part numbers:
dist. cap AL-134

rotor AL-150

condenser AL111

points AL4556XP

sp plugs 3116 Autolite D15Y Champion

I made my own sp plug wires from a Accel 8.8mm high performance wire kit.
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marc_l
New member
Username: marc_l

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2005
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've seen reference to a Blue Streak coil for an Atomic 4 which references part number UC-15, could this be the one you are referring to?
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richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 352
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Marc some M-60 AKA P-60s used typical 12 volt automotive coils without the ballast resistor and these are generic ignition coils that look just like the coils that require the external ballast resistor. The ballast resistor is a small porcelain unit about 3" long by 3/4" square. It has two wires connected to it one goes to the ignition switch and the other to the + on the coil. Typically it is located within a couple of inches of the coil on the engine. If your engine has the ballast resistor you can remove it from the circuit and get a coil that does not require the external ballast resistor. The other alternative is to get a 12 volt coil that does not say "Does not require external ballast resistor" and use your existing ballast resistor. Either approach works fine. Personally I would get one that "does not require the external ballast resistor" as that is just one more item to go bad. Remove the ballast resistor and everything should work just fine. Just connect the wire from the ignition switch to the + terminal on the coil and you are in business.
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eddie
Advanced Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 42
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yah, sounds like the one. There should be a piece of paper in the box saying " does not require external ballast". It might also be printed on the coil itself.
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Joseph Cordova
New member
Username: joeboxx2

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 07, 2006 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was frying my ignition coil after about 40 min until I installed a ballast resister. Now My question is-What should be my voltage at the coil while running? What is considered normal with resistor?I thought I should be getting a lower voltage with the resistor applied . I am getting 10.5 at the coil now .
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Howard Taylor
New member
Username: catec

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 07, 2006 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Joe, you are probably using a 6 volt ignition coil (original part) which requires a ballast resistor. With the proper resistor, the coil voltage should be in the 6 to 8 volt range on a 12 volt system. Better to buy a 12 volt coil, see previous info from Richard Day of 1/24/05
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Brent
Visitor
Posted on Friday, June 09, 2006 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Other than having one more part to go bad, is there any compelling reason not to have a separate ballast resistor? When I purchased a new coil (a version that requires an external resistor) I also purchased a new ballast resistor.

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