Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

P60 overheating after valve job

Old Marine Engine » Palmer Engine Co » P60 overheating after valve job « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Blakey
Member
Username: catboater

Post Number: 23
Registered: 07-2007
Posted on Friday, September 30, 2011 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just completed a valve job on my P60 to address a compression problem in two of the cylinders. The valve job went fine; engine now starts easily and runs fine, with good compression in all cylinders. But now the engine overheats, where it didn't before. It has a heat exchanger. Plenty of flow through the raw water side, with good discharge through the exhaust. The exhaust water never warms up, though, even
when the engine is hot. I've looked at all the common
problems that cause overheating - checked all the hoses for
kinks, replaced the water pump impeller (even though the old one looked perfectly fine), double checked to make sure I
didn't hook the hoses going to/from the heat exchanger
wrong, made sure the bleed line to the cylinder head wasn't
blocked, etc. My basic question is, is there some common mistake that DIY'ers like me commonly make in the course of
a valve job that would lead to overheating? Can you get vapor lock when refilling the heat exchanger that would prevent circulation of coolant? I suppose the cylinder head gasket might be faulty - holes for coolant passage in the wrong places or something similar, but I got it from a reputable tractor parts house and it looked just like the old one.
I'm out of ideas and would appreciate the insight of anyone who might have encountered this before.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

kevin stone
Advanced Member
Username: kdstone

Post Number: 43
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had a similar problem after a recent complete rebuild. It can sometimes be a challenge to get the air out of the coolant passages, I usually take of the temp sending unit and fill the block from there then replace the sending unit and start the engine with the bleed line off and watch for air or coolant there adding coolant in the heat exchanger as it runs
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

tim walker
Member
Username: i_fix_it

Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Monday, October 10, 2011 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi David, the most common mistake is flipping the head gasket end for end . O most head gaskets the cooling passages get larger the farther away from the incoming water port you get. This is true on most engines so it's probly the same on our P60's. Hope this helps, Tim

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page

Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
&copy 2005 OldMarineEngine.com, P.O. Box 188, Forest Dale, VT 05745-0188 • Phone: 802-247-4864 • All rights reserved.
   Marine Engine Seloc Repair Manual Lookup Tool

marine gas engine repair and restoration