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rebuilding grease cup trick

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Tom Stranko
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2003 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had two "automatic" (spring loaded) grease cups that had worn out pistons; let the grease just slide past the piston instead of pushing it out the bottom. The piston is just some washers but the ring is a hard fiber thing that probably
is hard to find. I called the small local auto parts shop and got two 1-3/32" dia brake wheel cylinder cups. They are tough neoperine. All I had to do was drill a hole in the center with a Dremmel. Put them in large end first (just like in the wheel cylinder) Works like new.
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Richard Day
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2003 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great idea Tom. Will have to add that to my bag of tricks.
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richarddurgee
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2003 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In my service shops it was a cardinal rule to never let any petroleum product touch a honing stone used in brake cyls, use as a cleaner,or get any of it in the master cyl reservoir. The brake cups swell up and lock up ! May be modern day brake cups are not bothered by petro products but I would check those greasers after a few weeks, would not like to think of a shaft scoring if auto greaser locked up??
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Tom Stranko
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

About the tolerance of cups to various fluids: I went all through this with my 1939 Pontiac brake system. The bottom line is that modern cups will withstand ANYTHING (this includes the worst-most deterimental-of the modern fluids{silicon fluid})
I have found however, that NOS brake rebuilding kits from antique car shows have parts that do just what Richard ststed; they swell up and get all rubbery in modern fluids )especially the silicon fluid) I'm all knowledged up on the silicon fluid because I changed my Pontiac over to it so I wouldn't have the cylinder sticking and corrosion problems every year (works!!)
So don't be afraid to use the new cups with any grease or lubricant.
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jack
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2004 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Mr. Tom Stranko. I have been wondering why the NOS wheel cylinders in my '53 Studebaker pickup failed in a short time. I used silicon DOT5 fluid. Up to now, no one had been able to confirm my suspicion of this condition.
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Ernie
Posted on Monday, March 15, 2004 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This is really "off topic" However it is a real safety concern.
Do NOT use DOT 5 brake fluid unless you change it at least once a year. Silicon/DOT 5 brake fluid is NOT hydroscopic. The moisture that will eventually accululate in any brake system stays as H2O and under hard brakeing conditions will turn to steam causing the brakes to fade. DOT 5 is used in high heat situations because it won't boil. However most of these types of vehicles (race cars etc) get the brake fluid changed often so the moistrue doesn't have time to build up.
Reguar brake fluid (DOT 3)is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture. This will prevent fade in most if not all normal driving where the fluid is not changed.
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Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

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