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Clae 4HP info requested

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andrew
Moderator
Username: andrew

Post Number: 867
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Thursday, August 26, 2004 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have received the following by email from Bob White in Australia:

quote:

Hello folks,

I recently found this engine at an old dump on the banks of a river in the Gulf region. Would like to know if any one can help with history of motor type, where i might get parts,

Any help would be appreciated

Regards
Bob White




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marks
Senior Member
Username: marks

Post Number: 68
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 03:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bob,

CLAE (Central Launch And Engine)built several types of engines from just after the first world war to the mid 1970's. They were mostly four stroke with the Bantams being the only two stroke,

They also converetd automotive engines to marine use as well as bringing in palmers, red wings and quite a few other engines from the States.

They were made in 3 and 4HP models with two types being a square and a round cylinder. The early models had the round cylinder.

CLAE were orginally at Balmain, Sydney, They moved to Bankstown, Sydney sometine in the late 50's early 60's. I can give you a reasonably exact date if you like.

Parts will be troublesome. There are still a few of these about but not really any parts. What do you need?

Regards

Mark S.
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rum
New member
Username: rum

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2004
Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Mark,

My engine is fairly corroded and imagine I would need things like rings, bearings, etc. The muffler looks like it is beyond repair and the water jacket in the cylinder has a crack in it, although I can probably weld this up. The carby has a couple of little bits missing. I would like to get this motor going if possible.

Do you know of any contacts in Aust who I might be able to speak to.

Once again thanks for your help

Regards
Bob White
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marks
Senior Member
Username: marks

Post Number: 69
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 01:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Bob,

Rings you can get, also carby parts. Drop me a list and I will see what I can do.

Cracked waterjacket! It will almost certainly crack even more unless you take action. The reason it has cracked is due to corrosion. The corrosion expands under great pressure and wedges until the iron splits.

To stop it from corroding further you have to stop the oxygen and moisture in the air from the reaching the inside of the jacket.

If it was not cracked then you can pour diesel, engine or soluble oil in. Because it is cracked this is more difficult as whatever you put in will leak out.

What you really need to do is remove the cylinder and exhaust and immerse totally in your chosen medium. Using oil will make repairs difficult later on as the iron will absorb quite a bit of it.

I use a 5% caustic solution. This will halt the corrosion as well as removing all of the paint and oil. It is Ok to leave in this for many months although don't put in aluminium, Bronze and brass is Ok for several days.

You will then have to treat the waterjackets for chloride(salt)and blockages before repairing.

Best regards

Mark S.
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rum
New member
Username: rum

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2004
Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info Mark,

I have been out bush for the last few days so apologise for delay in responding. (found nothing this trip).

Have arranged for a plastic drum big enough to soak motor in your solution. It will be soaking for a couple of months as my work is going to take me away from home on a regular basis until the wet season starts.

The engine is also missing the magneto or the dog drive for a magneto.

Is it easier if I contact you on your email address direct or continue to use the mailing list.

Thanks again for all your assistance.

Bob White
Katherine NT
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marks
Senior Member
Username: marks

Post Number: 70
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Sunday, September 05, 2004 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bob,

You can contact me either way, although some on the list may be interested in the progress of your engine.

Here is what I would do in you situation going away.

1)Remove any brasswork and aluminium.

2)Check the piston and make sure it is not aluminium.

3) Put the whole thing in a 5% caustic solution. Diggers is good from Woolworths, a 500g tub will do 10 litres of water.

4) Leave in caustic for a couple of days and check frequently. This will remove oil and paint as well as some of the looser stuff.

5) Throw out the caustic solution.

6) Mix up a 10-20%(volume) solution of mollasses to water. Mollasses can be found at horse and farm supply outlets.

7) Leave the engine in this for as long as you like. This will deal with most of the corrosion as well as free up various things.

NB. wear eye protection and gloves when dealing with caustic. The mollasses will smell after a while, something like a brewery.

Regards

mark S.
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rum
New member
Username: rum

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2004
Posted on Saturday, September 18, 2004 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mark,

Thanks for the advice. Have now got the motor in the mollasses. It will be about two weeks before I will be able to check it, as out bush for awhile.

Will advise when remove motor

Regards
Bob
Katherine NT
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mat thompson
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, June 06, 2006 - 06:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 4hp and a 3 hp clae engines my question is what fuel mix should I be useing ie I no the mix is around 32 to 1 should I use motor oil and fuel mix or two stroke oil and fuel hope someone can help regards mat
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rbprice
Senior Member
Username: rbprice

Post Number: 202
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Tuesday, June 06, 2006 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The best mix Mat is straight 40 wt. oil rather than an automotive oil with all the special additives and its multi-viscosity properties. 32/1 is about right, too much and it will make smoke and kill mosquitos, too little and it will run hot.

Cheers

Bob Price
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mat thompson
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, June 07, 2006 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks bob for the information but Im not sure what 40 wt . oil is ?? thanks mat
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mat thompson
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, June 07, 2006 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks bob 40 weight oil Im up to speed now !! one other thing Ive read to mix well obviously it wont mix like a two stroke oil so is shaking the can good enough and does it stay mixed over a period of time .regards mat

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