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1973 VOLVO PENTA MD1B DIESEL INBOARD

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sailingerie
New member
Username: sailingerie

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello I am new to this discussion board and my new old Volvo Penta diesel inboard. Just trying to get her running. Any ideas for parts cheap? Head gasket, injector and injector pump. Thanks for any ideas.}
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Tom Hastie
Visitor
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a MD-1 all parts including starter. It appears the pump is not pumping. It did start but no oil no go. It is a Bosh pump
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mygooma
New member
Username: mygooma

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello I am new to this discussion board and I recently purchased a 1973 Rydsin Continental Skipper multi-purpose Launch that has an old Volvo Penta MD1B diesel inboard engine. Can anyone help me to locate a Diesel Mechanic in Southern New Jersey (around Long Beach Island, Ocean County) that could take a look at the engine and transmission for me. I have had the engine running but it could use some help. Thanks
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mygooma
Member
Username: mygooma

Post Number: 10
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Friday, July 22, 2011 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, I have just about given up on my Volvo Penta MD1B. I had the Injector Pump and the Injector rebuilt last year and it hasn't started since. I have been advised that I have to correct the timing for the rebuilt pump but now the engine has seized. I have taken the injector out, but I still can't turn it over with the manual crank. I even put some Marvel oil in the Injector hole to try to free up the cylinder. Any help would be appreciated!
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 94
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How long did you leave the Marvel in? It usually takes at least 2-3 days. I have found that Kroil works better.

Once you get it turning check the compression, should be around 500lbs. It has been awhile since I rebuilt 1B and I cannot remember anything about the injector pump timing. I seem to remember just putting it back in.
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jimdereynier
Advanced Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 42
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Compression

Matt- Is that 500 PSI a good bench mark for a Sabb 2H ? (1975, 2 cylinders I bought a spare engine from Pat's Marine Diesel, Seattle and trucked to CT. It has more compression than my boat engine- but I have never measured the compression. The boat engine does not like to start when it is below 120 F- Below that I use WD 40 and below 60F use your hair dryer idea and WD 40. Below 40 F must WD 40 in both cylinders and butane torch. (I had the valves done maybe 5 years ago)

I assume I need to swap out engines so I have using your Kroil spray on the engine mounts for the past 8 months.
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 95
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think 500-550n is about what is required to to start and run any diesel engine.
Sounds to me like your engine is suffering lack of compression syndrome. I'm thinking rings and a cylinder hone might be your next expense.
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puddle_duck
Advanced Member
Username: puddle_duck

Post Number: 31
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2011 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi all,
Can anyone tell me what can be done with leaking frost plugs on the side of the engine blocks in an MD3B.
I took them off a few months back to overhaul. But noticed that the cast threads were gone and that the brass/bronze inserts were worn down . I put them back in but could not tighten at all and they leak enough to start rusting the block. When its up and running it evaporates but as soon as the engine is killed , water drips off .It does not drain down the system but its enough to rust the block and peel paint.
Should i plug them fully , re thread the blocks and try find larger plugs.
Would oak pegs be a stupid idea?
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adsum
Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 30
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

To stop the leakage of frost plugs I wrapped plumbers tape around the threads of the brass plugs. The teflon tape is heat resistant.

http://www.howtoaustralia.com.au/plumbing/a_quick_guide_to_using_plumbers_tape/
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puddle_duck
Advanced Member
Username: puddle_duck

Post Number: 32
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for that .
Trouble with that tape is if you use too much then the remaining thread will just slip and not draw itself into the casing .
Its worth a go though.
The alternative is too glue them in and get a few more years out of them . The Engine would have to be drained and any damp dried off.
The tap still works on them all

thanks

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