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Wire size

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Brent Putnam
New member
Username: brent

Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The wiring on my Palmer P-60 installation is pretty much all original, so I'm planning on upgrading it.

Everything seems straightforward, except the battery cables. The manual specifies 'No. "0" CABLE' between the battery and solenoid, and battery and ground. I'm finding 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0 cable, but no plain vanilla 0. I found a few references, and if I'm interpreting them correctly, then 0 and 1/0 are equivalent, 00 and 2/0 are equal, 000 and 3/0, etc.

Can anyone confirm this?
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Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 227
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Where have you gone for cable?
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Brent
New member
Username: brent

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Friday, March 13, 2009 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looked at West Marine and Defender online; haven't purchased anything yet.
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Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 228
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you have a marine electrical shop near you? Aside from that, it's a good idea to replace your ignition key switch
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Brent
New member
Username: brent

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've been thinking about replacing the switch. I stumbled across a post on the Moyer Marine site where someone explained how they used a 4-way keyed ignition switch that has an accessory position which can be used for the blower. This would allow me to combine switches and simplify things.
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Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 229
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The main thing about the switch is that they get corroded with age and cause engine failures. The same thing happens with old cars but you do not see it as much with cars because they tend to get scrapped before that happens. People who maintain old trnsportation cars or restore classics are more apt to run into the problem.

Get a marine grade switch from a marine part source. Be sure that the drain hole in the body of the switch is pointed downward when installing.
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 721
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Those cables Palmer is refering to on their drawings are the starter and battery cables. You need three cables. Positive battery to starting relay. Starting relay to starter and battery negative to the frame of the engine. In my opinion any of the conventional automotive starter cables for small cars as distinct from
heavy trucks will have more than sufficient current handling capacity. The rest of the wiring I would use stranded number 12 AWG. More for physical strength in most cases than for voltage drop considerations.

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