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Palmer 60 Crankshaft movement & Front...

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David Grosse
Member
Username: davidg

Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have just assembled a Palmer 60 that was rebuilt by others and have encountered numerous problems getting it running. Having cured most of them, the motor runs (FCUBM97873), but the flywheel moves up and down more than I would expect. It moves up and down about 1/8" running slowly, and more 1/4" when the throttle is moved quickly.

Thinking this was just a flywheel issue I took the flywheel off and discovered that the crank sat very low in the front seal, leaving a 1/4" gap between the seal and the crank on top. And yes, it does leak oil out the front when running. I turned the crank by hand but the gap remained the same.

I am hoping that someone with experience with these motors can advise why the crank and seal housing are not aligned, and why or how it is that the flywheel can move this much up and down when the engine is running.

Thanks,

David
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Roger DiRuscio
Senior Member
Username: solarrog

Post Number: 547
Registered: 03-2002


Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sounds like they did not replace the main bearings
Grb the flywheel and pull up and push down, this bearing should be tight, not sloppy
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1070
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Save all the bolt on parts which convert the IHC Cub Lo-Boy C-60 ,repeat C-60 engine to a marine engine. Go to any IHC/CASE tractor dealer and see if they have a rebuilt or rebuild-able short block. Cub Lo-Boys are widely available as they have served a long useful life and people who use items like that have changed to more modern tractors big time. Forget all the tractor stuff like carb, governor, distributor, flywheel. Use your current head as it is tapped for the air bleed next to the oil filter and remember to press the reverse gear drive spline off your crankshaft and press it on the replacement crankshaft. Get a full gasket set for the P-60 and copper head gasket from "Gaskets to Go". If you fresh water cool the engine the standard tractor gasket works fine but don't try to use it in salt water cooling operation. It will quick rust out and cause real corrosion problems.
This may sound like overkill but I would be very suspicious of a crankshaft which may have been operating for some time in the situation you describe. If your exhaust manifold has been operating in salt water cooling you better find a spare good one as they are difficult to find and salt water cooled units are generally unrepairable!!! }
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David Grosse
Member
Username: davidg

Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Richard and Roger,

Thank you both for your replies. It sounds like this block may not have been put together properly, or that there is something wrong with the crank. It is not loose and does not move up or down by pushing on it as Roger suggested. The pistons indicate that they are +.060, and it was very hard on the starter to turn the crank the first couple turns, which took repeated tries, but now spins normally.

If I were just to guess, it seems like the crank may "flex" in operation. I don't think it can have any run time on it, because all the oil would have run out the front crankshaft seal from the gap between the seal and the crank. I am wondering about re-machining the seal housing to lower it (or re-center it) relative to the crankshaft to prevent oil leaking out.

I also have access to a couple other Palmers 60 engines, and may check them to compare the seal and crankshaft behavior.

If these additional thoughts generate new ideas, please send them to me. I am somewhat at a loss other than just tearing things apart.
-David
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David Grosse
Member
Username: davidg

Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2013 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did not want this thread to just die. After tearing apart the block, I discovered that the main bearing caps had not been torqued on and the rod bearings were only snug tight. No gaskets had been used between metal parts, but the engine had been all put together and sold as rebuilt.

This is a caution to all buyers of homebuilt rebuilds. It could have ended much worse.

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