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Head Eval

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robert_ray
Member
Username: robert_ray

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you think I should have the head maged and replace the head bolts or will just cleaning them suffice
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Ben Sidaway
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Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would definitely recommend replacing the head bolts. They are relatively inexpensive from your IHC dealer. Make sure you follow the correct torqueing pattern for bolts and do it in stages. Alcohol will get rid of moisture in the cylinders. While you have the head off make sure you check for scale in the block and head. Mine were full of it. Try cleaning the water channels with radiator flush
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robert_ray
Member
Username: robert_ray

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

what's the tightening sequence? did you rebuild the carb and if so how diffucult was it ?
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Ben Sidaway
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Your IHC dealer can give you a diagram of the tightening sequence. I can scan my copy if you don't get the sequence with your gasket. The carb rebuild is pretty easy. You can get the complete rebuild kit from IHC but there is stuff in it that you don't need. The carb probably only needs a good cleaning (get carb cleaner from an auto store for a couple of bucks). You will need the carb body gasket though, just ask for that. Check your float needle. Mine jammed up when the flat dropped. In fact after my rebuild I'm still having trouble. Engine dies sometimes and the pump floods the carb instantly. The kit comes with a new needle and a little spring to pull the needle down now. My old needle just relied on the weight of the needle to drop it out of the throat. There was no groove to attach a spring to. So I guess I'll have take it apart again and replace the old needle with the new one with the spring and replace the throat. Your M-60 manual wil have all the details of the carb assembly. Good luck.
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eddie
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 60
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tightening sequence:
13---7---4---6---10

14---3---1---2---11

15---9---5---8---12

Torque at 45 ft.-lbs. per HI tractor manual
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eddie
Senior Member
Username: eddie

Post Number: 61
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Note: Brand new cylinder heads are still being made by after market sources. If you get one you will need to drill and tap a 1/8 pipe thread hole at the forward end for fitting for air bleed line.
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robert_ray
Member
Username: robert_ray

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Eddie, last question is how are the bolts numbered on the head so I know which one is which?

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