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Unknown and mixer trouble...

Old Marine Engine » Carburetors, Mixers, Vaporizors » Unknown and mixer trouble... « Previous Next »

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andrew
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dick Day sent in the following:

Quote:

Brad called me and asked that I help him figure out why this engine, what ever it is, won't seem to change speed over a wide range. It either idles or races. He was using a 20:1 oil/gasoline mixture and oil was coming out the exhaust so I told him to go to 40/1. His mixer is different from any I have seen in that it seems to have two check valves. Other than that it looks like a lot of the marine check valves I have seen. I don't know if it is a Detroit or not. The lower check seems to do nothing but further seal the inlet air chamber. The upper check seat has the conventional hole for the needle valve inlet.
Any help would be appreciated.... Regards, Dick




Brad's original comments were:

Quote:

Here are three pictures of what I was told was a Detroit engine. I am looking for any information on the Gen valve carburetor in the
picture. If you are not familiar with this valve and can send me in another direction it would be appreciated.
THANKS Brad



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andrew
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looks like a Cady Canoe motor... 1-1/2HP, 3" x 2-1/2", RPM 100 to 1000.

I have a copy of a 1920(?) catalog that shows it with a Schebler carburetor.

Here are pics of one with a float carb.

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J.B. Castagnos
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This is a three port motor and doesn't need a check valve for the crankcase. The check in this mixer is used to control fuel flow. There's a small hole in the seat that admits fuel when the valve is lifted by intake air. When the valve falls shut it closes off the fuel. Speed should be controlled with timing, not with the mixer. I don't think this engine is a Detroit.
J.B.
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Richard Day
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

J.B. what puzzles me is the second check below the lift check with the hole for the fuel from the needle valve. I don't recall ever seeing one like this with two checks. The butterfly valve acts as a slow down valve in marine operations. It was typically set slow to start and full bore to run. The lower check has no spring and apparently only its weight returns it to the seat. Point well taken this being a three port engine. My experience is a worn 3 port will often continue to give service a few more years if you add a check valve. Brad said that no matter where he set the timeing it didn't change the engine speed. It was eaither idle or full speed. Perhaps he was to aggresssive in how he set the timing.
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Richard Day
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, I suddenly realized I have a Cady but it is a little bigger than this unit. I would think 3 HSP. What tipped me off was the handle for the timer is the same on mine as the one in the boat. I don't think the carburetor is a Schebler but one of the knockoffs by Monarch or Michigan Wheel. The tip off is the float valve extending above the valve cap. Mine has the same timer enclosure as Brad's.
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Nick Bettevy
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Look back at the previous post titled Caille engine dated 10/02/02 with 18 posts. The pictures of my Sandow/Detroit show a similar mixer to the one on Brad's engine. Mine came without the additional check valve and it works just fine. I suggest taking off the lower check valve and check to see if the engine responds correctly to the timer.
Nick
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captain bill
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The lower check valve makes no sense, this mixer probably had an internal screw thread for a filter(back fire) assembly, not a check valve. Dick is correct regarding the "slow down valve" leave this open to start engine, probably would have the handle "in line", (it's closed in your picture), with the plumbing.Screw in the gas mixture setting on the side and back off two&1/2 turns, The top screw adjusts the movement of the poppet valve (air volume) and should be open. If this won't make it run you should suspect crankcase seal problems per Dick Days comments. This could be worn bearings, open holes to crankcase, (missing bolts or open drain valve!!!)This is not a Detroit!! Nice engine though.
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rbprice
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The cylinder and crankcase look just like the ones on my two cylinder Cady. Mine has a Schebler carburetor on it.

Bob Price
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Ernie
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi all,
Remember the most wonderfull Fay and Bowen that Keith had getting dressed for Calvert earlier this year? Well when it was at Calvert I could not get it to do much. (rev up) I learned rather quick just how much the control that sets valve lift really matters. The throttle worked just fine after I opened up (or increased) the check valve lift. By the way the engine in question is a 3 port and does NOT need a check valve. I have one and it runs like my Briggs Lawn mower, you can walk away from it and it will still be idiling smoothly when you come back. It has a Schebler carb on it.
Hope this helps
Ernie
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captainbill
Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

One more thought Brad! You need to have your fuel tank with a vented cap above the mixing valve (gravity)to feed it. Install a fuel shut off in the line as well, although in "theory" the mixing valve is supposed to shut off fuel when closed, don't trust it!! Unless the valve seats perfectly it will leak.
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john graverson
Visitor
Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HI ANYONE PLEASE, i need help w/ my boat! i own a 32 ft. coronet twin chrysler 360, 250 hp about 3 weeks ago 1 engine started running bad. it starts good, runs good at idle, and then at 2000 rpm it bogs up & down to about 1000 rpm and also console dash and gauges go down on that engine. we have checked everything w/ the fuel. any other suggestions thank you john g.

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