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Float problems

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miro forest
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 288
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Over the past 2 - 3 years, the cork floats on Kingston 4 ball carbs have been starting to fail.In some cases, the floats are in pieces.
The consensus is that the gas plus ethyl alcohol blend ( 10%) that is now sold as part of the so-called green movement, is to blame.
Attempts have been made to substitute a foam material, but we've found that it grows over a period of months. The float then rubs up against the side of the bowl stops working properly.
The expansion is about 1/16 in per inch of material. This in spite of coating the foam float with thin epoxy.
The second observation is that the foam becomes a bit flexible. Again, not good because the float can move relative to the attachment point to the needle valve.

Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, what did you do to resolve the problem? I suppose that I could change out the float every couple of months = but that's not a good fix.

miro
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Paul Gray
Senior Member
Username: paulgray

Post Number: 52
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Miro- The new floats have been reformulated to resist the ethanol. I ran some for a month trial in 20% ethanol with no evidence of swelling. If you drain the float bowl after each use, you can stall the problem with the older, pre-ethanol floats. I have not tested higher conc of ethanol- Imagine what it is doing to those older cars and outboards
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John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny

Post Number: 120
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2007 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think this might fix your problem. Epoxy will soften up over a period time if left in gas. Try using seal-all it is gas & oil resistant and has been around for a long time. Also is very light weight and dries fast almost to fast. Creates a hard thin skin over the cork. Takes it a few hours to cure completely. I purchase mine from my local hardware store. See link below.

I also think it is a good idea to run the gas out of the carb when you done for the day.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm

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miro forest
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 289
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2007 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the tips - yes, I do try to drain the bowl after each trip, but sometimes - well you know how it is, mother nature is calling after 3 - 4 hours of putting along..
I'll see about the SealAll - looks like it might help.
Miro
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Maury Polse
New member
Username: capmo

Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Paul, When you say "new floats" would that be cork?
Maury
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John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny

Post Number: 167
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have recently had trouble with the seal all getting soft also. My Dad uses the gas tank sealer for his cork floats and says he has had no problems. So I guess I will try it.
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Paul Gray
Senior Member
Username: paulgray

Post Number: 57
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2008 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Maury- No, these are not cork. It is a completely new resin which my tests indicate is immune to ethanol. I had a heck of a time coming up with this after the ethanol was added. I made a LOT of floats over to take care of the ones failing in service.
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Todd Vidgen
Advanced Member
Username: todd_vidgen

Post Number: 45
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 02:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Miro,check the thread "Schebler model D observations".We are using OMC carby floats and
modifiying them
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John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny

Post Number: 170
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2008 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Talked to my Dad today and he told me that the float in his old 1928 Oakland car felled. It had the tank sealer on the cork float.

We are now talking about trying different sealers or making floats using very thin sheet brass stock.
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John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny

Post Number: 188
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just thought that I would let everyone know that I found another sealer for cork floats. I am still in the trial stages at this point but so far it seems to be working and it is a very simple solution. What is it? clear Model airplane dope. Like they use on the old silk span balsa model airplanes. you can purchase it at most of your local hobby shops. Give it a try and let me know how it works for you. You can purchase it at most of your local hobby shops.
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John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny

Post Number: 190
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clear model airplane dope still working fine. I have been leaving the fuel in the reservoirs on purpose when I'm done running the engine. The engine I'm experimenting with the floats on is my 18hp Detroit two cylinder two cycle stationary flywheel engine.

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