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Acadia 3hp - Need help

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sage
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2004 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I recently aquired this Acadia 3hp. I've begun overhauling it but I need a few questions answered since I'm having trouble finding detailed pictures of completed engines and I think it's missing a few parts. If anyone could help I'd appreciate it. All I know about it is that It's been sitting like this for at least 50 years since my uncle-in-law who is now 86 seems to remember his friend bringing it around as-is and dumping it in his barn when he was in his thirties (to the best of his memories). I expect the engine would have been used for maybe 20 years in order for it to get in this condition so it might be 70 years old. Any ideas by looking at it??
The serial number plate has no numbers.

1,As I received it

Question 1. Would numbers have been stamped or painted on the tag. It might be my imagination but there could be a ghostly "2" visible if they were painted but there is nothing stamped into the plate.

I started the overhaul with the carburetor. It was in prety good shape. The cork float was fine but I re-coated it, this time with epoxy. I assume it was probably varnished originally. I had to make a new neeedle for the float valve. The original was broken. I made all new gaskets and cleaned it up with a salt and vinigar solution.

2,overhauled schebler D

Question 2:

I intend putting new babbit crank shaft bearing into the engine since I had to turn about 20thou off the journals to remove pitting. There was no crankcase gasket. Can someone tell me what the original would have been made from and how thick it should be. A friend suggested the original might have been leather. No sign of one on this beast the bolt were all loose and the engine half dissambled.

Question 3:
What parts are missing from this picture. The water pump shaft must connect to something and the little leaver and screw assembly must connect to something else.


3,right side gubbins

If someone has some good close up pictures all around the engine it woud help me greatly.

Thanks a lot

Dave Sage
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sage
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2004 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry Guys. I'm new to this. I accidently closed Explorer while messing around with the pictures. Here they are:

1

2

3
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rholcomb
Posted on Friday, January 30, 2004 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

acadia
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sage
Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here's a closer look a the mechanism. The pump shaft is just sitting there not connected. What's missing?? to get it conencted to the pump and ignitor??
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sage
Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2004 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

closeup
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George Coates
Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well Sir, I'm not up on these little engines, but my father has a few. So PLEASE take what I say with some thought.

The Dribbler- I mean Schrebler - carb is a standard, no nonsense carb. It requires two things. First is a constant fuel level. Great idea with coating the float with epoxy, but unfortunately you've inadvertently changed the weight of the float. The best thing is to find Dave Reed of Otto Gas Engine Works and order one of the appropriate Dr. Gray replacement floats. It is a direct replacement made from modern materials that won't do all the nasty things cork does. Definitely worth the cost. The second thing a dribbler needs is a gasket. Yeah just one. It is paper and goes right around the center throat. The cool thing is if the fuel level is too high, or your float is too heavy, the excess fuel flows freely from around the bowl. This saves your onboard emergency flares for later, because people will see the fireball for miles...
As far as split case gasketing, I've only ever seen paper. It's usually a semi thick shirt card stock stuff. I seem to remember a few layers that would allow for some bearing clearance take-up. Probably the same single gasket around the bottom of the jug/cylinder, and side covers.
The trip timer mechanism resembles the one on the Atlantic with a few differences. If I can find my digital camera, I'll take some pics and post them on Tuesday. There's a shoulder bolt that locates the eccentric strap to the water pump/timer push rod. The bolt/thumb screw deal on the square bracket is the actual timing adjustment. What's missing is the timer trip mechanism that goes in the slot of the trip bar. Pictures will describe this better.

Well hope this helps and I please feel free to ignore, append, replace, any of the preceding...

George Coates
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Richard Day
Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well said George, I suggest a neoprene O ring on top of the throat in those cases where the throat cover clearance is more than a few thou. I have seen them from a couple of thou. to 30 thou and cork was the old time solution but O rings are so much easier for the larger clearances as long as they are not rubber. Are you going to have the Tug at CMM this year. We are all looking forward to the big cruise. Regards from southern MD. We only have an inch of ice in the creek.
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Nick Bettevy
Posted on Monday, February 02, 2004 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Maybe these pics of my Atlantic will help. The timing advance/retard is different but the missing parts should be the same.
{image}
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Nick
Posted on Monday, February 02, 2004 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

mvcoo1
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Nick
Posted on Monday, February 02, 2004 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

mvcoo2
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sage
Posted on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok, I can see what's going on now. Tricky. I guess there must be spring behind the L-shaped trip arm to return it to the left - correct?

What Acadia is this?

Just what I needed and not such a big deal to fabricate either.

Thanks for your time and effort.

Dave Sage
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Ernie
Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

By the way your engine looks like a 4hp not a 3hp. The 3hp did not have a removable exhaust flange.
Also there are some really good pics and drawings in the Acadia section of this web page.
Hope this helps
Ernie
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richarddurgee
Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2004 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

cover
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sage
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the nice clear picture. That really helps me out.

Dave Sage
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harris
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2004 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sir the engine you have is a 4 acadia i hapen to have 3 missing from your s is the trigger and the bolt that carries the pump up and dow it also trips the ignitor there are parts out there or you can make them yourself
HARRIS GAVIN
westport NL
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Iceberg
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Sage,

Yes, on the Atlantic engine there is a return spring underneath the trip lever. The trip lever in the Atlantic is simpler than the one in the Acadia.

Kevin Price
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Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

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