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First Blaxland purchase - seeking sta...

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Andrew Matthews
New member
Username: andrewm

Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 03:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

All,
I received my first Blaxland today - originally found on Ebay.
I can get it to fire but it coughs and farts, spits back through the carb and then dies.
Could one of you gentlemen please advise me of what typical timing and mixture settings are used for starting?
The plate on the cylinder says
Model X
Engine No. 2531
Product of Blaxland Rae Pty Ltd
Sydney NSW
Manufactured under chapman patents

Can anyone tell me what type of engine I have, vintage, power etc?

I'm seeking a manual if anyone could point me in the right direction as well.

I've always wanted one of these motors in a 14' clinker, reminds me of my youth on the Georges River as a kid.

Cheers, Andrew

photo1

photo2

photo3

photo4
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Greg Y
Senior Member
Username: gregoryan

Post Number: 52
Registered: 09-2004


Posted on Monday, January 25, 2010 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Its a 3 1/2HP about 340cc
Typical timing is about 2 1/8" circumference BTDC at the flywheel timing Mark.
Needle valve usually approx 1 turn out to start/ then 3/4 turn running warm.
Air plunger pre-load spring adjusment [on the top of air-horn] about 4 threads showing (depending on individual spring strength)
Doesn't look like the matching magneto, however i have one like that, as standard equipment on my single cylinder greyhound, and they earth the unused HT terminal inside the cap, to use the wasted spark. this helps the coil go through its charge/ discharge cycles.
1/8th pint(75ml) SAE50 in the sump after draining/ or on assembly. [message me for details where to get the rare oil]
Fuel/ Oil mix 32:1
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Andrew Matthews
Member
Username: andrewm

Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Greg,
I got it to run but not very well. It leaks and I'll need to make some new gaskets.

The carb is painted green and I'm concerned that maybe it's off a Simplex. In one of the big threads it was indicated by one of the gurus that this mismatch is bad news.

The magneto appears to have a distributor with cap and rotor but these appear redundant. I take it from your comments that this isn't original. It has plenty of spark though.

I'm on a sharp learning curve at the moment but having lots of fun!

Cheers, Andrew
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quinton wilkinson
New member
Username: qwilkin

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew looks like model SXT 31/2 hp called the PUP, chat to the builders Blaxland Chapman who are still around on 02 65583182
They are in Glocester Tops road Glocester NSW
Quinton
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David Myers
Senior Member
Username: dave_myers

Post Number: 78
Registered: 11-2006


Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 02:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, Where do you live. That way we can point you to the closest person to help you.
It is NOT an SXT.. It is an X or sometimes called SX.
It has a rear flywheel where the SXT has a Front Flywheel. 3 1/2 HP SAE.
The Carby is probably the main problem. The float has dried out and is probably RS.
Talk to Boyd Myers on 0243692218. Davistown Central Coast NSW. He has New synthetic floats and various Air horn springs etc.
He does a repair service as well. He will fully overhaul your Carby and also Magneto if needed.
Full engine rebuilds etc as well, and free advice.
Boyd worked alongside Aub Rose for many years and is right up there with all the tricks.

For the sake of a phone call, you will save yourself much frustration.

Cheers,
Dave.

Lake Macquarie Putt-Putt Group
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neil r jones
Advanced Member
Username: senojn

Post Number: 36
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 05:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew ,I gave you the approx weight before you took delivery .
Has to be the rear flywheel model as the arrow indicates clockwork rotation viewed from the front. Model SX.
Had my first one, 14 ft clinker , called 'Pop Pop ' moored at Connels Point on the Georges River in the late 50's.
Can copy some manual pages to you .97734844
Cheers Neil
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Greg Y
Senior Member
Username: gregoryan

Post Number: 53
Registered: 09-2004


Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If your distributor cap has been bypassed, and there are 2 lobes on that cam [at the points] then there will be too many sparks happening per crank rotation, possibly causing it to fire backwards, does it do this. Looks like a suitable carb in the pic, should have a 3/4" air inlet? [as opposed to 1", +]
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Laurie Derwent
Member
Username: laurie_d

Post Number: 13
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I agree that the carby is the most likely problem. Check the float level by lifting the top of the carby off. It should be very close to level. If the float is still OK the needle valve may need adjustment or replacement. I agree a synthetic float may be a good idea but I still have success with cork floats cleaned with metho, dried thoroughly and then given several coats of shellac. I use premium unleaded with a 32:1 fuel oil mix using 1/2 50 grade oil and 1/2 outboard oil. Do not use ethanol petrol with a cork float.
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quinton wilkinson
Member
Username: qwilkin

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does anyone know of any Blaxland devotees with expertise in Victoria who could visit

Quinton
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Andrew Matthews
Member
Username: andrewm

Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the informative responses everyone.

I got the engine to run reasonably well after now understanding the various knobs and settings.

The carburettor bore is 3/4". The magneto is puzzling. Maybe it came from an old 4 cylinder motor but is happy just firing the one cylinder of the Blaxland. It has two lobes so the second spark is wasted. Does a two lobe cam match a 4 outlet cap?? Anyway it works.

The water pump eccentric is quite worn and has 1/8" or more of slop. Looks like it will need a bush or like.

Here it is starting and then running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uvh3d1kx7HM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVZQQHPeXc4&feature=related

Thanks for your help and advice and I'll contact the Central Coast and Gloucester people regarding parts (I'm down near Mittagong).

There's a photo of the hull that I'm going to fir the motor to below. It's a glass replica but will survive on a trailer happily.

Cheers, Andrew

p1
p2
p3
p4
p5
p6
p7
p8
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David Stott
Advanced Member
Username: david_stott

Post Number: 36
Registered: 06-2005
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That distributor cap is just being used as a cover for the points housing. Normally just a steel cap covers this area on this type of magneto -(RS1). The rotor button serves no purpose.
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Laurie Derwent
Member
Username: laurie_d

Post Number: 14
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew, I'm glad you are progressing. With regard to your Blaxland water pump, depending on how bad the overall wear is (i.e. how thick is the remaining material on the saddle), you may be able to solve the problem by filing the 'top' of the bottom half of the saddle (where it bolts to the top half) the required amount.

I find that any leak from the gland on the pump tends to result in rust and pitting of the crankshaft. The jury seems to be out on whether that increases wear on the saddle.
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Murray Hopkins
New member
Username: murray_hopkins

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew,
just watched your e tube video's, you are doing great.
re
Murray

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