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Palmer nr 2

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dj baisch
New member
Username: ihorse

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i need any starting/running info on a NR-2 palmer 12hp
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 920
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I assume you have the ignition system hooked up with a timer with the contact points at 90 degrees. Use T Ford or equivalent buzz coils.
Retard spark! Remember flywheel turns counter clock wise faceing it. Push compression reliefe lever aft. Put about a quarter teaspoon of gasoline in each cylinder priming cup. Set carb needle valve assuming it is Scheble model D about 3/4 turn open. Set throttle plate slightly open. You don't want the engine to run away with a wide open throttle. Simply pull the flywheel counter clockwise over TDC. Engine should start. pull compression release forward to running position. You will quickly learn the best settings for running. If you flood it open the priming cups and pull the flywheel over and let it fire out the priming cups. Close and start again. Best I can suggest!!!
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 921
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry forgot to advance spark after engine starts. If you advance too far the engine will knock badly. The Compression release is just that it is not used to reverse the engine. The reverse gear provides reverse to the prop shaft.
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dj baisch
New member
Username: ihorse

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks for that info--i don;t seem to figure out the hook-up for the timer, there is only two terminals for sparkplugs, but i can;t see anywhere to get the timer power from a batt/coil, there is NOT another terminal anywhere, and mine does not have a comp release like you mentioned
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 922
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK, Get the Palmer Handbook from Andrew and it shows the hook up for the ignition. You take a six volt battery and connect the - post to the engine frame anywhere convenient. The Palmer - engine connection was typically a small brass compressible clip which you depressed and clipped the - battery connection to the engine frame. The + battery lead is connected to a knife switch or equivalent. From the other pole of the knife switch it is connected to two Model T Ford buzz coils or equivalent. The bottom connection on the T coil box is the battery connection. The knife switch allows you to start or stop the engine. On the side of the T coil box there are two brass contacts. The upper (near the buzzer portion) is the wire which goes to the timer. Note when you roll the flywheel counter clockwise the timer drive shaft rotates counter clockwise. The position of the set screw in the timer drive shaft tells you where the contactor is in relationship to the contacts inside the timer body. The first contact closure as you rotate the flywheel counter clockwise is for the no.1 cylinder. (cylinder closest to the flywheel) The second contact closure is for the no. 2 cylinder. As the timer roller hits the contact No. 1 it completes the battery circuit for cylinder No. 1. The coil should buzz and the high voltage output fires the number 1 spark plug. Keep on rotating the flywheel counter clockwise and the second buzz coil should buzz and fire the no. 2 cylinder. Keep in mind you must provide a suitably insulated spark plug wire from each coil to its mating cylinder. It is preferable to use metal core spark plug wire.
To check the timer is correctly adjusted to place the internal rotor on TDC of the no. 1 cylinder rotate the flywheel counter clockwise to bring the piston to TDC of the firing stroke. Note the position of set screw on the timer drive shaft. It should be to your left Starboard engine side. Place the timer handle forward. Remove the screw on top of the timer. Don't lose the spring and bushing under the cap. Note the position of the roller should be in line with the set screw under the timer. Don't know which version of the CUNO timer you have. Most CUNO two cylinder 4 stroke engine timers are found with the no. 1 terminal to the right of the drive shaft and the no. 2 on the aft face of the timer in line with the handle. Some are found with the two contacts with the No. 1 contact at 145 degrees and No.2 225 degrees, Two stroke two cylinder engines you can use any pair of contacts at 180 degrees. but the drive shaft still has to put the no. 1 cylinder on TDC with the handle facing forward to permit advance/retarding the the spark.
If you find your engine with the timer handle straight forward the internal rotor is not on the the number one contact. Simply loosen the drive shaft 1/4 20 set screw and lift the timer body off the drive shaft and grab the flat with a smooth face adjustable wrench and rotate the shaft until the flat causes the rotor to line up with the No. 1 contact with the handle straight forward. You can buy modern reproduction buzz coil which follow the same general wiring layout as the T Ford but they have binding posts and are much simpler to connect up to. The primary wire for the ignition should be about 16 AWG.
If your NR-2 has no compression release I suspect it is the only one in history without one. On the port side of the engine is the exhaust manifold and exhaust valve drive mechanism. Just behind the flywheel there must be a handle sticking up which when pushed aft reduces the compression. As soon as the engine starts pull it forward as there is only a bump on the camshaft and you don't want to cause camshaft follower wear.
Hope this helps.
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dj baisch
New member
Username: ihorse

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2010 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks-
i would like to get the handbook you mentioned for sure, with this , maybe he will get ahold of me- as i don;t know how
thanks again
d,j,

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