Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

Roberts Single Cylinder Questions.

Old Marine Engine » One and Two Cylinder Gas Inboards » Roberts Single Cylinder Questions. « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Monday, August 25, 2008 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just picked this engine up at the Portland Indiana antique engine show. Anyone got any info on it? the tag is missing, and also, is this the correct carb? Thanks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

bgoss
Advanced Member
Username: bgoss

Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2007
Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

JK, I saw your post on the other channel with your new eclipse. Nice engines. The base looks to fit pretty good, do you think that it was a stationary model with the flat belt pulley on the far end? But it does have a big marine-type muffler.
Interesting.
Blair
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 05:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It might have been used later in life as a stationary engine, but the base is not original, its just a good fit.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee

Post Number: 1787
Registered: 11-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

*
I had a few photos of this engine from the previous owner (trying to get a better view of the carb) but can't find them right now. Identified it as a Roberts and looked into its history, Roberts made this design from 1908 to 1913 (WWI). The 1911 -12 catalog showed the Kingston carb wwhich was the most expensive carb
option- you could order different carbs from many mfgrs on new engines---your engine above probably 1908-1910 !

1911

R111

*
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

dick
Member
Username: dick

Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2004
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Attached is a picture taken at Mystic this year by Scott. It is a Roberts (Model O), made for/by (?) Mullins Boat Co. according to the tag, and it has the Kingston carb on it like the one in Richard's ad above. I don't know if the carb has been changed over time or not. Any other help I can give you?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks a bunch guys. Mine has a spot in the flywheel that looks like it is for a handle. But if it is, then it would have been a very small one. How were these things started? Hand crank?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 388
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The crank was usually used on magneto equipped engines, pretty rare on marine applications. With a buzz coil you can usually choke it and prime by rocking back and forth on a two port engine like yours. Three port engines usually need to be pulled through to prime them. The engine should fire at top center with the timer straight forward. If you push the timer away a little before top center and pull the flywheel towards you it should kick and start in the opposite direction. Pull the timer towards you a little after top center and pull the flywheel through compression, it should start in the direction it's pulled. Once it starts you should advance the timing a little to get it running and cleared out, retarding after to reduce speed, the throttle is seldom used for speed control. On a two cycle engine compression is critical, the engine should have a good bounce when you pull against compression and let it go. Worn rings will usually give a pop and need more cranking. The combustion gasses go past the rings into the crankcase, instead of a fresh charge of air fuel you have exhaust in the crankcase, cranking it pumps it out until it pops again.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 05:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks JB
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 06:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Im looking for the brass timer lever. Mine is broken. See the below picture, it is broken at the arrow. Thanks everyone. John Widener
Broken Timing Lever
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

john_archibald
Senior Member
Username: john_archibald

Post Number: 92
Registered: 08-2006


Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

John,

If it is truly brass, then it can be silver soldered back together. When I say silver solder I mean 90 percent silver and 10 percent copper or some such alloy. ( Harris Sta-Silv 35 should work ) Bevel the edges leaving enough raw fracture for registration and then flux it all over with borax. Heavy near the joint. Bring to temperature with a torch and apply the silver solder. Both pieces should be clamped so they don't move with respect to each other during this process.

Let cool. Then throw into a pot of water and boil it. This will dissolve the flux that remains. Then file, sand and buff 'til your heart's content.

If it is bronze, then you will need a special flux. Borax won't work.

Archibald
Northfield, Minnesota
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

barry
Senior Member
Username: barry

Post Number: 99
Registered: 02-2006
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here is an image of a 1 " NPT Kingston carb that is for sale. Send me an email if interested.

Barry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

dick
Member
Username: dick

Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2004
Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mine had the timer handle completely broken off, so I silver soldered a small brass "patch" on the bottom to hold it together. Seems fine so far but it does show a litle.

.Repair
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener

Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I got this engine up for trade. If anyone is interested. Im in Central Indiana and can deliver it to the Portland Indiana swap meet in May, The brass peice still needs soldered but not to hard to do, just havent had time. I have seen this engine running before i aquired it, but have not run it myself. Nice restoration already done and on a nice stand and on nice skids. interested in hit n miss engine trades or other simular items. johnwidener@sbcglobal.net

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page

Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
&copy 2005 OldMarineEngine.com, P.O. Box 188, Forest Dale, VT 05745-0188 • Phone: 802-247-4864 • All rights reserved.
   Marine Engine Seloc Repair Manual Lookup Tool

marine gas engine repair and restoration