|Rust inhibitor for raw water jacket
Post Number: 3
|Posted on Tuesday, October 07, 2008 - 09:26 pm: ||
Any comments on rust inhibitors/reformers, for raw salt water cooling jacket? What is best treatment for winterizing and storage?
Can any rust "stabilizer " be used iside the water jacket? I am reworking a Palmer BH-6 and wondering if anything can be done to chemically stabilize the rust inside the jacket or inhibit future rust. I am blowing out the loose particles with compressed air and flushing with water.
I plan to use the BH-6 in a circa 1909 launch using raw water cooling (salt water) but will consider a heat exchanger and engine coolant.
Post Number: 667
|Posted on Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 06:34 pm: ||
Don't let the engine water jacket dry out or the salt resident in the pores of the cast iron will exspand and destroy the water jacket. All my salt water engine water jackets are filled with straight automotive anti freeze with no repeat no water added. For shows I drain the antifreeze off and put it back after the show. Running the engine at the show on fresh water only. If you have a good BH running with salt water cooling is simply going to shorten the life of the engine and a simple keel cooler is so simple to add it is well worth doing. Run a 8 foot long 1/2" dia. copper pipe up one side of the keel rubbing strip to the area of the bow. Make a U turn and bring it back to the engine area on the other side of the running strip. Bring the two ends of the keel cooler up into the boat convienient to the area of the engine. Arrange a simple vertical exspansion/filling tank from 1-1/2 copper pipe using standard copper pipe fittings. Make the exspansion tank a couple of inches higher than the head of the engine. Use a copper pipe cap as a removabe cap with a 1/16" breather hole in the cap. Then fill the system with a mix of 50/50 automotive anti freeze and clean fresh water. This mix will protect the system from freezing and it avoids having to drain the system during cold weather or seasonal lay up. Make sure you make provision to drain the system in case of damage or other reasons. Once the system is installed you may have to change the pump impellor or repair a cracked fitting. A simple drain will avoid a lot of mess to clean up. Rather than use soldered joints use so call phos/copper brazing as it is much stronger and resistant to galvanic action by salt water. Use reinforced plastic tubing to connect to the pump and cylinder discharge. These pipes can be your suitable drain. If you have a dry exhaust you don't need to add a sea water pump to cool the exhaust pipe. For sea water cooling add a small sea water pump driven off the flywheel pulley or an electric pump off the starter ciruit. The sea water system will need a seacock and separete piping to inject water down the exhaust pipe.