Post Number: 3
|Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 08:16 pm: ||
I have an old single cylinder 3hp marine engine that I've semi-restored..As the piston was tight at the top of the bore when I got it,we assumed that rust was 'growing' in the water galleries around the barrel ,so we had it re-sleeved and re-bored..This was about 8 years ago and everything was fine.The engine never did get started (interests shifted) and so it has sat there in the shed ever since.I filled up the water galleries with a solution of soluble oil and water and left it..
What has happened ,I think,is that lately the rust has started growing again.I went to engine about 6 months ago and everything was OK,so this has happened in the last few months...
Would anyone have any thoughts about what I should do about this ???
Thank you so much...Charlie......
Post Number: 4
|Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 06:03 pm: ||
Just thought I'd add here that the piston is again seizing at about 2" from top dead centre..
Is another re-sleeve/re-bore the only solution here ???
Post Number: 429
|Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 09:20 pm: ||
Wondering if this is a 2 or 4 cycle. Most 2 cycle engines have a round water jacket over the cylinder. Seems like it would expand the jacket before it would compress the cylinder, cast iron is a lot stronger in compression than expansion. If it's 4 cycle the rust could be between the cylinder and the valve area, there's a lot of mass there that would be pretty solid. I would hone the cylinder with a positive hone like a Sunnen, not a spring loaded one, see where it's binding. You may want to have the cylinder heated in a furnace to 900F or so, this will break down the rust and turn it to powder, it may cause some more distortion though. See what the Coates' did with the Barker,
Post Number: 5
|Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 02:57 am: ||
Thanks for your interest JB.....
It's a 4 stroke engine...about 5" bore x6" stroke and the water galleries are all around the cylinder and the head is seperate from the barrel....hope this is of help....
Post Number: 927
|Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 07:48 am: ||
I had this happen on a Hawboldt. I miked the cylinder carefully then hoaned the area that was compressed. It took about all of 15 seconds with the hoan to get the high spot out. This was ice damage not rust though.
Hope this helps
Post Number: 112
|Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 03:51 pm: ||
It happens in Simplexes also 4 stroke motors.
As I understand from your phone call to me,
you are planning to sell this motor,if so I
would suggest do nothing as the next owner should
know exactly what they are buying
Post Number: 6
|Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 07:46 pm: ||
Thanks for your replies everyone...
After a fair bit of thinking,I've decided to go the 'clean and hone' route..That is:- Take it to the engine re-con shop,soak the cylinder in the caustic tank for the weekend and then hone it....If all is a success,then I'll fill the galleries with Glycol.
The reason I'm going this way is that if the engine does'nt sell,then hopefully the problem will be temporarily solved and then I can maintain the Glycol in it.
If it does sell,then the new buyer will be MOST DEFINATELY be informed about all of these issues....
By the way,the engine is an Orion 3hp.(?) from about 1917(?).These were a New Zealand made engine,based on a Frisco Standard...
Best wishes to all.....and thanks...Charlie..
Post Number: 35
|Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 08:46 pm: ||
i have a 4 hp frisco and had a similar problem even with a mix of glycol in it what had happened was a crack had opened up in the chamber for the valves within the head and leaked fluid into the 1st set of rings and freezing up the piston i had also sleeved the cylinder.....
I ended up burning out the head in my furnace and then grinding out the crack which was difficult to get at being recessed into the valve chamber within the head...
Post Number: 712
|Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 04:35 pm: ||
In my opinion adding any fresh water to an engine long used in salt water keeps the rusting going. There are only two treatments I have had sucess with. One is totally filling the water jackets with automotive antifreez with no water added or filling with used or new motor oil. This keeps the oxygen in the air away from the salt in the pores of the jacket. The old timers all used used motor oil in their old blocks to keep them for spares if the new block were to fail. Anti freeze is a lot easier to clean up if you develope a leak. Fill from the bottom of the water jacket to insure totally driving all the air out of the passages. Use a length of plastic tube for filling then tape it to the side of the block so you can check if you should develope any hidden leaks.
The undeniably best treatment is to raise the cast iron to a high temp and in effect drive the salt out of the iron.