Post Number: 1
|Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 10:56 am: ||
At present I'm emailing for hubby Mike, hope you don't mind a lady on the forum! LOL and pardon if I don't have all of the info you might need at the moment. Here's what I do know:
Mike and his boss are restoring a Seabird with a Buchanan Comet, 1948 is the assumed year, serial # 48-1737789 and they are unable to find any "specs" for the motor. He specifically needs info on winterizing it at the moment for the client as it's getting cold quick here in Muskoka. In future he'll need the specs/pics of the internal workings as this model is new to him. The Buchanan "Comet" has been a tough one to locate info on even though it was built locally...Have read previous posts re Parry Automotive and Hugh MacLennan and he may need a manual in future...but for now anything would be much appreciated.
Thanks for your reply,
Shirly Reid for Mike Reid
RR#2 Port Sydney, Ontario
Post Number: 198
|Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 08:20 am: ||
Winterizing is straightforward, but be patient and careful
There is a drain at the bottom of the oil cooler and in a rather awkward spot at the rear of the block, just behind the hose that connects the water pump to the oil cooler and there should be a drain plug for the exhaust manifold. It is usually a 1/4 pipe thread plug.
There is a drain cock for the water pump or a 1/4 i pipe thread plug. Take the plugs out for the winter and remember where you put them. I give the water pump a couple of shots of grease for the winter to drive out any water that might have seeped into the bearings.
There may also be a pipe plug near the transom to let the water out once the boat has been hoisted out of the water for the winter.
Put in a good dose of oil into the cylinders before you take out the battery and crank it over over a couple of times to get the oil onto the valve and valve stems to prevent seized valves next spring.
Put a small piece of paper between the ignition points to prevent corrosion. A couple of drops of oil into the drive shaft of the distributor won't hurt.
Make sure you suck out the water from the exhaust pipe and then plug the outlet with a rag to prevent rodentia from taking up residence.
There is a drain in the carb bowl - this are usually drilled out and you'll probably find a lot of crud in the hole . I don't usually empty the glass sediment bowl because the gasket will shrink over the winter and you'll lose fuel pump prime. But if there is water and crud, empty it and then crank the engine to refill it.
I usually take the gas out of the tank so that next year,I start with a tank of fresh gas that dilutes any moisture. There is a product now available that allows water to mix with the gas (wetting agent) and the water simply goes through the engine as you burn the gas next year.
It is not a bad idea to plan on an oil change next spring since these engine don't have oil filters.
You should also give the grease fitting at the prop shaft a turn to get grease into the bearing.
The oil in these engines also is used in the transmission, so you only have ot fuss with one oil change.
During start up next spring, I usually fill the block with water and "wet the whistle" for the water pump just to make sure it gets primed.
Sometimes you can get manuals at the Gravenhurst ACBS Boat Show in July. You might also try Ed Skinner at Duke's Marine in Port Carling.
I found that when I first went at this, I made up a checklist and went through the motions to make sure I got everything before I actually did it.
Post Number: 2
|Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 08:37 am: ||
Thanks for the tips Miro!
Sounds like the winterizing of this baby is pretty straight forward.
We've found a gentleman in Conn. that is very well versed with this specific motor, things are looking up.