Post Number: 15
|Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2015 - 08:05 pm: ||
My Lycoming UAB calls for 30 weight oil. Engine oils have improved dramatically over the years and I am looking for some recommendations. Because of the Joes gear I heard I should stay away from synthetic as it will cause it to slip in gear. Should I use the same as was called for? Detergent or not?
Post Number: 245
|Posted on Monday, June 01, 2015 - 09:53 am: ||
I use non detergent 30 weight and change once a year in my 1955 Chris Craft still runs good after 25 years
Post Number: 186
|Posted on Monday, June 01, 2015 - 10:31 am: ||
I also recommend non detergent straight weight. I get it at the local farm supply store.
If you must use synthetic pay up for Harley Davidson oil. Their oil is designed for engine and clutch.
Post Number: 16
|Posted on Monday, June 01, 2015 - 07:18 pm: ||
Thanks all for your input. I appreciate it.
Post Number: 169
|Posted on Monday, June 01, 2015 - 07:33 pm: ||
Several people who are successful at building old marine engines are having good luck with Amesoil synthetic marine straight weight oil. I am told but not verified that it is working well over the temp range in the transmissions.
Post Number: 678
|Posted on Friday, August 28, 2015 - 11:01 am: ||
A bypass filter is a particularly good idea in a marine engine. There are several that use a tight roll of toilet paper as the filter element. Cheapest and best filter there is. Frantz and Motorguard come to mind. Many users never drain their oil again, just replace what is lost in changing the TP roll. Check it out.