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Sabb diesel single cylinder

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blavendave
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Username: blavendave

Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 08:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am trying to get my engine back in working order. It lost compression suddenly, and stopped. The piston and the wet sleeve look in good condition. Can I simply change the piston rings and then put it back together, or should I also change the sleeve and piston at the same time, despite the fact that they do look in good nick?
Any ideas welcome.
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sailingerie
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Username: sailingerie

Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2007 - 07:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Check your valves. Chances are the piston and rings did not suddenly wear or break. One of your valves may have stuck open or have carboned up on the seat.
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hutchwah
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Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looking for schematic view of feul pump for one cylinder sabb marine deisel. Believe this pump is piston and not diaphram option.
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Matthew Spilka
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Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

To carry out a service on a SAAB 10hp single cylinder marine diesel what replacement items are reccomended. Is the sump drain plug located on the sump pan
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blavendave
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Username: blavendave

Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2007 - 03:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Depends on what you need to renew/replace.
I ended up having to replace my silencer -£330. The gaskets and piston rings came to another £300.

The oil is removed from the sump filler with a suction pump. There isn't a drain plug on mine, so probably not on yours either.

You'll need to replace all the gaskets you disturb, and then check on the viability of all the parts you remove.

Good luck.
Dave
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Brendan Mcevoy
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Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2007 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HI all,
Have been working on my daughters boat today and have run into trouble!!! changed the fuel filter following the boat running oyt of diesel, after bleeding and much cranking she finally fired up. Left her for 45 mins to get a temp transmiter from local motor spares shop and fitted. Restarted the engine and forgot to open the fuel cock ran out of diesel, bled again, fuel through the filter up to the injecter and along the spill pipe, took the injector apart to check for poss blockages, clear. refitted tried again no start removed head checked gasket paraffin test on valve seats, piston and liner looked if fair to good condition anealed and refitted still no start. Fuel was added from a canal side pump, is the Saab sigle pot model G suseptable to poor fuel? is there something I should know about this particular engine if not I am hopeing that it is poor fuel. Your thoughts please.
Mac fron Cannock.
This engine always takes an age to start, 30+ seconds cranking
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2007 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Starting a Sabb 2H
Brendan- the 30 sec. crank can be shortened by squirting some 10W oil or WD40 in to the hole for the "glow plug", Crank about 3-5 sec, close the compression release and it will start in about 3 seconds

Jimd.
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lawrence
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Username: lawrence

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

can anyone tell me where i can buy a 12v starter for a 10hp sabb diesel,as my flywheel is not fitted to take dynostart belts, thank you. please phone 07901756200
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 17
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Lawrence: A new Sabb starter might cost $600. I would take a pattern of the starter mounting area , depth to the flywheel and the flywheel teeth pattern to an old automotive rewind shop- If you got a match on the teeth and had a starter with a longer throw on the bendix assembly , then you could get a machinist to make a mounting bracket.
Good luck
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gbf97dialpipexcom
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Username: gbf97dialpipexcom

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does anyone know where i can get rings and a liner for my Sabb 10 HP - GG 71 853 and whether as an alternative I can just hone the old liner and fit oversized rings ??
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davidgee
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Posted on Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 05:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello
The clutch on my 1970 Sabb model GG 10HP single cylinder engine is slipping. It slips for five seconds, then grips for 5, then slips, etc. Any ideas what might be wrong?
David
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 20
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Monday, August 17, 2009 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clutch slipping on SABB 10 HP:
Some place on this web site, I wrote detailed instructions with pictures on clutch adjustment for a Sabb 2H. I think the 10 HP has the same set up. Make sure you replace the adjustment nuts with STEEL self locking nuts. Also get a 15" flexible magnet rod because you will drop the nuts several times. If you are worried about wear on the clutch disk, use a vernier calipers. A new disk measures about .100" thick. I would serious doubt that the disk is the problem.

Good Luck,
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orkkiseta
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Username: orkkiseta

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 05:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

what is the valve settings for the 10 hp sabb G model???
Lost my owners manual. How many mm exh, inlet??
Is there any online PDF. manual avalible
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orkkiseta
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Username: orkkiseta

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Clutch slippin,,, check that oil is ok
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blavendave
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Username: blavendave

Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

orkkiseta,

The manual states that the clearance is 0,3mm (.012") with the engine hot or cold. Both inlet and exhaust are the same.

Not aware of an online manual - tried Sleeman Hawkens? They have everything else, or at least seem to...!!

Cheers

Dave
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Christian Preier
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Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 05:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have an old sabb diesel and want to sell this. It is from 1973. the cylinder head is not good. I know, that it ist possible to repair it. I have also another sabb starter to sell.
The maual for the sabb you can find on www.sabb.no
there you choose english. My english ist not so good - i am living in germany.
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Christian Preier
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Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There is a welding company in Münster in Nordhrein-Westfalen. They have welded my cylinder head that is in my sailing boat and it runs now very good. The price for welding was 500 Euro.
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blavendave
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Username: blavendave

Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 03:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a single cylinder Sabb G 10hp diesel engine and am putting it back in the boat.
All is in, bu I can't work out how to attach the throttle linkage.
It is a small chain which seems to wrap around the engine attachment, which is round with a small spindle (which makes it possible to operate it by hand).
Does anyone know how to attach the chain through the hole? Is it held in by friction or...or...what??!!
Any suggestions please!!!
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Andy Dorman
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Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 05:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Is there an expert/doctor in the house ? I am trying to remove the injector from my model G single cylinder engine. The two retaining bolts are out but nothing seems to have been loosened. What am I doing wrong? If I am not successful is there a good mechanic/help available near Banbury UK ?
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sherlock
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Username: sherlock

Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andy,..What worked well for me on the Buda Diesel Pre Cups, was put your bolts back in as far as possible, but leaving them loose a little.
Bar your engine over and the piston compression should lossen up your Injector. Chuck
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johntyk
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Username: johntyk

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 05:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am re-building a Sabb Model H 69 143. I need to align the vibration damper drive gear with the crankshaft. What should the angular relationship be?
Many thanks
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi what do i need to look out for on the 10hp sabb,it runs ok and there is no smoke,the decompresor lever doesnt work but i guess it needs adjusting
Cheers
Chris.
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 22
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Chris:
Decompressor lever- On Sabb 2H, The lever has a set screw on a rod that runs into the rocker arm cover. Either the set screw is missing or the rod is 180 degrees off. Remove the cover and you should see the problem. You do not need a torque wrench. you may have to make a new cover gasket.
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Jim,
Chris.
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi i have a 10 hp sabb,it doesnt have a temp gauge and i am wondering how hot the clyinder head should get,it is quite warm to touch after about an hour running,there is plenty of water coming out of the exhaust.
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genewj
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Username: genewj

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Sabb was the engine of choice by all the shipping companies for years, the reason: It was the only engine they could start in the lifeboat on the davits and have it still running 10 minutes later when it was launched, without any coolant.
I own one and mine has about 1900 hours on it. Way back when, I added a line from the water discharge to my cockpit. that way I could always see that it was getting coolant. Bill Miller in the USA says it does not need much water flow and he's right on.
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi thanks for the reply,so it seems my Sabb does not need much cooling water going through her,its just that i run a few Gardner L2 for lighting and heating and these are quite cold to the touch after running all day and under a load,my Sabb is quite hot,the head anyway and i know trying to get a spare head is tricky.
chris.
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genewj
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Username: genewj

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just remember, that engine can overheat to the point where it freezes up! Let it cool down and it will start up and run again just fine without any repairs. So if the head is hot do not worry, mine gets very hot too. It sure helps to get plenty of air to the engine.
gene
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

i have a Sabb 10hp,its runs ok but after about 5 mins when it warms up i get a squeking noise coming from the front left side of the engine,its not the alternator or the fan belt,any ideas anyone?
Chris
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Raab
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Posted on Tuesday, February 09, 2010 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

am new to this type of engine .have a 1978 g i one cylinder and looks to have a few fuel system parts missing . photos with part name would help ! also need starting instructions and avaibilty of parts !!
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 23
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, February 09, 2010 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

RaaB:
If you are in the USA- contact Bill Miller for owners manual
SABB - USA (352) 589-2882, sabbamerica@aol.com
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grivit
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Username: grivit

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Monday, February 15, 2010 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Recently ran out of fuel with a Sabb 10 HP engine. Does anyone have a written process on how to bleed the system and get the engine running again?

Thanks,

Ben
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 24
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, February 16, 2010 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

On Bleeding your Sabb:
1. Install a hand squeeze pump found on all outboard motor tanks-same location.
2. pump up the pressure
3. on a 2H, there is an obsolete fuel filter just before the injection pump- open the output side of filter.
4. Do step 2&3 a few times until you are sure you are not seeing any bubbles.
5. Do step 2, crank the engine 10 seconds, open the fuel line to the injector and close the line before turning off the starter.
( Step 5 can usually be skipped because of the squeeze pump pressure
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,i would like to fit an oil pressure gauge to my Sabb 10hp,any ideas on how i would go about doing this,
thanks,
chris.
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 40
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am a fan of electric fuel pumps. They sure make bleeding the lines a breeze.
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Michael Kary
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Posted on Wednesday, April 07, 2010 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does anyone have a problem with your Model G running more than the recommeded 120-140 deg.,? My engine runs hotter-always between 170 and 180. I have changed the diaphragm and flushed with Salt Away but still runs hot. Any ideas??
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eudan
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Username: eudan

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Please I need a price quote on this Sabb Diesel materials attached.

Thanks.
application/pdfRFQ
EUD 6000091754_ONE.pdf (90.4 k)
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welshy10_0
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Username: welshy10_0

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2010 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
Can anyone advise me on fitting an alternator to my sabb GG, the engine is currently fitted with a starter motor as the dynastart gave up however i now need to charge the battery! Thanks
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rickp
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Username: rickp

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 2 J H R SABB and would like to buy 2 waterpump diaphragms for a SABB diesel 2 J 1 1 F (2 J H R 232 / A E 30 / 1900). SABB 842ff is on the diaphragm motor side. It is approximately 73mm in diameter. Can anyone help me locate these parts, please.
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a SABB 2H engine mounted in a 27 ft dutch steel sloop. I am considerring selling the engine separate from the boat and replacing it with a yanmar ysm8 that I have running and salvaged from another boat. You can find information on my website www.jheld.mysite.com
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 28
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Secondary Fuel Filter for Sabb 2H.
The OEM Sabb Filter calls for a Baldwin filter element PF986- Also used on VOLVO PENTA MD1B MD2B MD3B. Apparently an alternative is P507 AC Delco. PF 986 Dimensions= ID of top rubber washer=.47", ID of bottom washer= .53" filter OD =2.67", height= 2.36" ( I still believe that you need an upstream Racor with maybe 10 micron filter)
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David Lawton
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Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was having problems with the cooling of my SABB 8hp GG. It would at first be too cold (under 50 degrees) and after giving more gas it would go up to around 80 or 90 degrees (centigrade of course). The thermostat came out in 3 pieces!!! Does anybody anywhere know how I can get a new thermostat? If I can't find the right type I shall have to replace the forward plate and alter the cooling pipes incorporating a 3-way thermostat. That will be costly and none original. All tips are welcome.
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 31
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sabb- Thermostat.
I think your single GG uses the same thermostat as a 2 H. In USA contact Bill Miller, sabbamerica@aol.com, (352) 589-2882. The 2 H temperature is 60-80C. Maybe automotive store would have a good match.
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A thermostat is not a very high tech device, I'm sure one from something else can be
easily modified to work without any problems.

Jon www.jheld.mysite.com
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David Lawton
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Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 03:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

jheldatksuedu :A thermostat is not a very high tech device, I'm sure one from something else can be
easily modified to work without any problems.

That's what I thought! But most engines today are far warmer. The GG has a temp. of 55 to 60C. Most start at 80C. Also the size - it is only 45mm wide and that's also not usual today.
Jimdereynier also thanks - Bill Miller has advised me to wait for a reply for SABB in Norway. Let's see what they say.
Any other suggestions still welcome!
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 33
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

D. Lawton:
I just stole a thermostat off my spare Sabb 2H (because I erroneously blamed the thermostat instead of an air lock in the antifreeze system) The unusual item in the “ new” thermostat was a dangling wire off the thermostat. Never saw this before. But I agree with jheldatksuedu any thermostat that fits the hole and matches the required temperature will work- The one I bought from Bill Miller worked for ten years and probably is still good. ( The temperature bulb of the thermostat goes down into the exhaust manifold/tank)
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thermostat and Subaru STARTER for Sabb 2h

I would not worry about the temperature difference of the thermostats, basically anything warn but not boiling is fine. Some new engines with pressure radiator systems might be too hot for the Sabb, but anything pre 1970 should be fine and lots of new stuff also. I'm sure with some searching you can find something close to the correct size, or one easily modifiable to work.

Reading above about the starter motor problem, I also had that problem with my Sabb 2h in my new 27 ft steel boat I bought to fix up and resell. I Identified a 2002 SUBARU LEGACY STARTER that would work, I modified the mount. You can see the starter on my website, I also have plenty of dimensions and other pictures that can be emailed. It took three easily machined aluminum plates to make the mount conversion.
Stuff like this is why I have a full machine shop, welder, and many other tools aboard my boat that I plan on circumnavigating with.

http://www.jheld.mysite.com/photo_3.html

Jon
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 34
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Jon Held- 2H Sabb
Great find on the Subaru starter. Tell us more about your decision on the refrigeration unit. I need a complete overhaul of mine which runs off the flywheel.
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Jim
I haven't done anything with the refrigeration system yet. I've been keeping busy with plenty of other little things. I was going to build a tabernackle for the main mast but I think that will wait till I get to Europe and need to use it to lower the masts to go through the canals. So I'll varnish the masts using a bosuns chair this time. I'm working on getting all the plastic water tanks installed right now, and building a steady rest for the lathe, to finish another project involving a 37 mm flare gun and 12 ga flares. For now life goes on without refrigeration. Jon
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Bob & Bert
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Posted on Saturday, June 12, 2010 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Our Sabb is in a lifeboat ,small 17 ft .

There isn't another little boat like it around here!

Do they still make this engine ?

Lake Lanier Georgia U S A
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
i am about to take the head off my Sabb 10hp gg,
There is a cylinder head nut holding down the front starting handle shaft and a nut directly underneath this bracket,i cant budge the top nut,my question is is this nut welded to the bracket on top or is it just rusted on,i dont want to use too much force on it.
Thanks
Chris.
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aknetman
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Username: aknetman

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2008
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just had it off on my engine (G) it is a nut - not welded. I used a socket with 18" breaker
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 07:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks aknetman,will give it a try soon.
Chris.
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macspud
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Username: macspud

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there everyone,
I was just looking for my pdf copies of the Sabb manuals to answer someones question about his gearbox when I found I no longer have them. I didn't make back up copies and a few months ago I had a nasty computer virus and lost lots of stuff.
Unfortunately it seem the pdf manuals included. I went back to the Sabb site but they seem to have changed it and no longer have anything to do with their old engine, Pretty tight I think.
Anyway does anyone have the pdfs that could send me copies. Kind regards Iain.
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macspud
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Username: macspud

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Oops I take it back, just couldn't find them on the new site (have now)they're not tight.
They have pdfs for the engines here:http://temp.sabb.no/eng/doclist.aspx?zone=23
Cheers everyone.
Regards, Iain
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 06:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I noticed on the Sabb gg 10hp engine manual that the oil it specifies is 15/40.is this correct?my book says 10/30.
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macspud
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Username: macspud

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It depends on the weather conditions that you are operating in i.e. above freezing or below.
See the Sabb GG instruction manual & spare part catalogue: http://temp.sabb.no/eng/viewfile.aspx?id=75
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Being a slow diesel, it wouldn't surprize me if it specs a thicker oil someplace. I would expect no dammage unless it was run at really extreme high temperatures if you used the 10/30 weight. Practically speaking The important thing is to have oil in it, it's weight is not really as important as long as it's somewhat close.

Jon Held

Web site http://www.jheld.mysite.com
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Friday, August 13, 2010 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi jheldatksuedo,i just had a look at your website,very interesting nice looking boat,it made me smile tho on the "things to get list"right at the top of the list is a rifle and a pistol,where do you plan to sail?
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jheldatksuedu
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Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I plan to circumnavigate for many years. I will visit many places and have to pass many places I would rather not have too.
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jimcabinboy
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Username: jimcabinboy

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2010
Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 05:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi folks, ive rebuilt my sabb, it seems to have a different silencer to the one in the manual though, mine is more box shaped, and my problem is that the pressure cap is knackered. the replacement sent by uk sabb dealer is about a cm too shallow, other than that its identical. Ive asked sleeman and hawkin if they know about this, "no". the sabb in question is GG74836 anyone got any idea where i can get a cap for this 'deviant' oblong silencer?
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derek mcreynolds
Visitor
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi. i have a saab h 69 and have had it running no problems but ther is no voltage regulater to charge battery. so i would like to know if i could fit an alternater to charge batt and run nav lights etc . greatful for any advice, thanks
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jimdereynier
Advanced Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 37
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Friday, September 24, 2010 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sabb H 69. If this is a 2H, the Alternator mounts on the starboard side. The bell housing supports the alternator base and the head has bolt hole that supports the tension bracket. The smaller flywheel pulley will match the alternator pulley. Take a look at Balmar marine alternators- good options for small engines.
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derekmcreynolds
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Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 06:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks jim for your reply. but i didnt mention that my engine has a dynostart system. is it still ok to use an alternator,,, thanks for you help ,,, derek
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clootie
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Username: clootie

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Monday, October 11, 2010 - 01:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a sabb single cylinder 10hp diesel in my boat which runs beautifully but I think the drive shaft is slightly out of line and keeps breaking the sacrificial pin.I have been advised that a flexible coupling is the answer which seems sensible but does anyone know what type etc I should be looking for and where to find one? Any other comments would be very welcome. Thanks.
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, October 11, 2010 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

have you tried lining the gearbox up with the driveshaft?you need to put shims under the engine mounts,a question for you does your cylinder head get hot to touch?i can hold my hand on mine for 5 seconds only,can this be right? how hot does yours get?
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Haydn Windle
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Posted on Friday, December 03, 2010 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a SABB GG in my boat and seems to suffer from every ailment on this forum! I can't even replace it with a new engine without butchering my boat. The only reliable thing about it is that it can be relied upon to let me down when I need it most!

Any SABB experts in Miami area please get in touch
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jimdereynier
Advanced Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 40
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Sabb USA distributor is in Florida.
Call Bill Miller- (352) 589-2882 ,sabbamerica@aol.com. ( phone first)
Bill led me to a FL marine overhaul who had Sabb engines and that outfit sent me to Pat Marine Diesel in Seattle where I bought a beautiful Sabb 2 H and shipped it back to Conn.
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vundakid
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Username: vundakid

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
I have a 1976 10 hp Sabb G that I had to pull the 12v fuel lift pump and could not find any markings to identify make. Any suggestions on a good replacement unit. What size socket to remove lube oil fill plug?

Thanks Tom
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 13
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 07:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
My Sabb 10hp has developed a misfire every now and then,i have changed the filters but it is still there,any ideas?

Chris.
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blavendave
Member
Username: blavendave

Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 01:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have eventually decided to upgrade from a Sabb 10hp single, type G/H to a 20hp triple.
This means I have a Sabb for sale. The only thing missing from it is the thermostat.
Anyone interested in the UK? I'm on Skye and buyer will need to pick up.
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Mark Hall
Visitor
Posted on Monday, May 09, 2011 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Sabb G 10 hp for sale. Asking $2900. It is complete with starter, new 50amp alternator, variable pitch propeller, shaft, etc. I just pulled if from a 10 ton Colvin Schooner which I am repowering. Previous owner had just had all the seals replaced. Runs perfectly. I am located in Stockton, CA, USA, and will deliver on the west coast for gas money. phone 209-609-7044.
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Tony Titchener
Visitor
Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Sabb HG 8hp single cylinder. I believe the fuel mixture is too rich`but see no way of adjusting it. The engine is hard to start, the exhaust is partly black,more under load than not, the injector is black when taken out, and it cuts out when slow running. I've had the injector fully serviced; it throws out a lovely spray and the fuel system seems perfect. The air passage does not seem blocked. Any ideas?
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jheldatksuedu
Member
Username: jheldatksuedu

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There might be some shims in the injector pump, that adjust quanity per stroke. I'm
not an expert by any means on this or any diesel engine. I would also suspect there
should be a fuel rack or something that determines amount injected per stroke and therefore engine speed and power, the gear engaging the rack might be off one tooth.

Jon Held

Web site http://www.jheld.mysite.com

---------- Original Message ----------

Posted by Tony Titchener on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 12:55 pm:

I have a Sabb HG 8hp single cylinder. I believe the fuel mixture is too rich`
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blavendave
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Username: blavendave

Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Sabb 10Hp model H/G for sale. Single cylinder, new exhaust manifold and a some other extra new bits, such as piston rings and push rods. I'm changing up to a new 20Hp engine.
Anyone interested, I live in NW Scotland, and want £200. New owner must collect as the parcel post costs are a wee bit high(!)
Contact Dave on 01471 822947
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Pat Dare
Visitor
Posted on Monday, July 25, 2011 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello, I have an 8hp Sabb diesel that I would like to get running. I don't know anything about the engine. Are there any reputable diesel mechanics in the Annapolis, Maryland area that can help me getting it running?
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robertbrida
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Username: robertbrida

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2011
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 04:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i am looking for a cylinder head for my 1970 sabb single cylinder 10hp can any one help please i live in Ireland and can be contacted by phone on 00353858123264
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david creighton
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We have a 1972 10HP Sabb GG marine engine. The boat has not been used for some six months because we lost compression. We have had a new valve seating fitted and reground exhaust valve and hopefully his will correct the compression problem. While checking over the engine, we noticed that the hand start handle was unable to turn the engine over and appeared siezed. The engine will still turn over manually at the flywheel and on the starter/dynamo. Any advice would be appreciated.
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 69
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If this engine has the same hand crank starting parts as the Sabb 2H, remove the 4 bolts from the clutch adjustment cover- immediately behind the block, and look the chain and starting pawl. ( see parts catalog part# 46) The pin that holds this pawl maybe have come out. ( mine came out and jammed the engine). you will need a magnet - pencil size- on a cable
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david creighton
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

jimdereynier - many thanks for your message. I will try it out.
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capt
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Username: capt

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2013
Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Is this website still active??? I don't see anything for 2013..... I have a G9 single piston in a 38ft Schooner Sugarbabe, Gloucester, Mass. USA.
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klanger
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Username: klanger

Post Number: 29
Registered: 03-2012


Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Capt, website is still very active, just no questions or input into this section. If you need any help ask away I'am sure someone will help out. Won't be me, I know nothing about these engines:-)

Kevin.
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 81
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ed.
You must be a better sailor than I am- driving a 38 ft Schooner with a 10 HP engine. I have a 18 HP , Sabb 2H and in a 15-22 Knot wilnd, I can barely back out of my slip in a 33 FT Atkin wooden schooner.
The single and 2 cylinder Sabbs have several interchangeable subassemblies. Check out the other sections.
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bodeydave
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Username: bodeydave

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2013
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am building a 17 ft fantail launch and am looking for a Saab 10 hp diesel. I don't have any idea of cost? New or used. Any help out there?
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Jerry Trintella 29
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1968 one cylinder G series Saab marine diesel that needs the water pump rebuilt. I got the parts from Bill Miller and found an excellent article on my phone with good directions far better than the manual. But the website was deleted and I have spent hours looking for this website again with no luck. Does anyone know where I can find good directions for rebuilding the water pump. The article had great directions with good diagrams and insightful tips from someone that obviously was proficient and experienced. I'm sure it would be useful for other issues. Anyone know of the website. MY searches keep bringing me here.
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RandyCoats
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Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2014 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm helping a friend finish a boat he got a hold of. A 48' schooner by the by. It has a 10hp Saab g diesel. We have the alternator, but no idea how it mounts. Could someone with this configuration point us in the right direction or email a picture? It would be much appreciated.

-Randy
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 92
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2014 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

one cylinder Sabb driving a 48' schooner- must be a better sailor than me. Here is a picture of my 2H- 18 hp.

Generator mount on a Sabb

On the starboard side front of the head, You will find a bolt hole or a bolt maybe 1/2" 7/16" dia. that holds the main weight of the alternator. Get a curved alternator tension bar from NAPA. That is bolted down to starter housing . The belt goes down to the flywheel-larger pulley slot. My picture has a compressor driven for that slot and alternator driven off the compressor)
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Tony Evans
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've found this site after a lot of searching on the net. What do an Isetta bubble car and a Sabb H-HG have in common? The regulator by Bosch. Part no. 0.190.219.001. Bosch no longer make it but can anyone recommend a company who may have one gathering dust ? Thanks, Tony
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nobby
Advanced Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 36
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Finding an original unit for a Dynastart will be tough. However one can reacreate it with modern available regulators and start solenoid or if your start relay with your existing unit still works then a regulator can be installed into the existing box.
www.issettadoc.com has a good discussion on how the system works and and the following is a source for a modern regulator as suggested:
http://www.dynamoregulators.com/dvr2-s.php
What you need to be wary off is that some suggest using a dynamo regulator that has to high an amp cutout. I have a dynastart in my shop that is totally burned up and unrepairable because of such a situation. That is why the regulator I suggested has the 8A limit.

Cheers
Nobby
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 93
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Monday, February 03, 2014 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

NobbY- Another great educational write up. I have known about combining the starter and alternator function but never seen one
http://www.isettadoc.com/files/dynastart.pdf

Other than weight and OEM cost, what are the advantages and disadvantages of combining.

Your note motivated me to order brushes for my SABB 0001311056 starter from https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/
I got 2 of these on the garage floor waiting for me to get on them. 0001307024 bosch starter on the schooner is doing OK but eventually it will not be as water resistance as the 1056.
http://www.woodauto.com/- is a great site for parts break down but it is located in the UK.
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couach_l12
Member
Username: couach_l12

Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2013
Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 04:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dear Sabb Enthusiast,

Please find below a link of a Dutch site, scroll down and you will find a lot of documentation about these engine, like part list, manuals etc
Happy readings

http://www.zweedseklassiekerclub.nl/motoren/76-sabb.html
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 94
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sabb Site
http://www.zweedseklassiekerclub.nl/motoren/76-sabb.html

Great suggestion- I opened two of the manuals and there are in English. I used BING translator ( better than Google for Norwegian)
and got a history lesson :
In 1925 there were along the Norwegian coast about 53 producers of small semi-diesel engines for fishing boats. Two brothers, Alf and Hkon Syland, started a firm at Bergen and designed a 3 HP motor. Three years later, meant developing a larger 7 HP engine almost the death blow for the company, because this engine took care of breaking cranks! However the pendulum was adjusted and the engine was re-launched under the name Ny-Sabb (New Sabb), after which the word "Sabb ' synonym for hardness and reliability. The engines fell popular with fishermen and the company prospered. Alf's two sons, Gunnar and Koll, came to the company just after the war, followed by Hkon's sons Jan different and Hkon jr.

In 1955 made a full diesel, designed by Gunnar, his debut: the SABB G. it was a long battle a-cylinder water cooled engine. Easy to start manually and equipped with a Bosch fuel injection system, could indirectly these days long walk at a slow tap-on without locking up. After the development in the 1950s this engine many years in production.

The SABB G engine was placed in (10) thousands of work boats, fishing boats and yachts, especially in the sixties and seventies. SABB Motors by shipping companies were in life rafts also used, because it is the only engine was, which one could start in life rafts to the sloop jibs and which still ran after ten minutes as the boats were launched, without that they have to be cooled. The model G is one of the longest run production processes in the history of the Norwegian marine engines. At the time of its 50th anniversary in 1975, had SABB Motor 170 employees and delivered 3,200 engines per year from 8 to 30 HP. In 1976 came the absolute milestone, the factory produced the 50-thousandth copy.
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nobby
Advanced Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 37
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Tuesday, February 11, 2014 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Jim,
Motorising a DC generator to provide a means of starting is an old concept and considering the temporary nature of starting does indeed create one less component with no ill effects to the generator. I'd say one of the advantages to the dynastart was to create a means of starting via a pulley rather than go through the hassle of adding a ring gear and creating a mount. An attractive concept on larger/exposed/front mounted flywheel engines. The main disadvantage is the very low charging amps, I believe at the most on larger units it was no more than 25 amps. The other disadvantage being all the eggs in one basket concept.

Cheers
Nobby
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Jerry Turner
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, July 14, 2016 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am looking to buy a used, rebuilt or new cylinder head for a G SERIES 1968 10 HP one cylinder Sabb diesel. call or email Jerry 305-469-4132 or jerryaturner2012@gmail.com
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Christopher Peat
Visitor
Posted on Monday, July 25, 2016 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello - I need to replace the alternator on my 18 hp 2HG engine. Does anyone know which alternators (e.g. Yanmar, Beta etc.) might fit?
Thanks, Chris.
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Malcolm Coe
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My son lives on his Halcyon 27 and the 1968 Sabb single-cylinder engine (with the original variable pitch prop so no gearbox) has stopped working; he cant turn it over by hand or battery.
Greg is currently in Plymouth, UK, and looking to chat to someone knowledgeable before he sets off stripping it down. Is there anyone in SW England who knows his Sabbs and has time to chat?
Looking above, perhaps the pin holding the starter pawl has come out??
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oslin04
Senior Member
Username: oslin04

Post Number: 93
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Malcolm, I have never been in to Sabb's but as a retired Marine Engineer I would suggest the starter gear and the ring gear may of coined i.e. one tooth is jamed on top of the other which can happen when they are worn,(assuming it is not a dyno start?) remove the starter motor and see if the engine is then free, if not you will have to look for something else, and may involve a strip down.
Keith.

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