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MD2B questions

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derekja
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Username: derekja

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2011
Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

I've got a 1974 Marieholm with an MD2B in it. Or there was until yesterday, anyway. I've just pulled it in preparation for a swap with a donor engine because it is all corroded and seized.

The questions come about because the new donor engine has a different configuration. It uses a dynastart and has an RB transmission whereas the one I just pulled has a monoshift transmission and a separate starter and alternator.

The starter seems preferable and I've got both flywheels off successfully (whoa, that was a task!) But my question is about the transmission. All of the cables and such are for the monoshift, of course, and the RB is a couple inches shorter so I'd like to just swap the transmissions. There is a bolt on the monoshift at the bottom that is so corroded that I can't get it off.

Once I finally get this bolt off, should the transmissions just swap over easily?

Thanks!

--Derek

(BTW. If anyone in the future finds this post searching for flywheel pulls, the trick I was finally successful with was to get a 1.25" drain fitting, slightly enlarge the 4 holes with a drill bit, get 4 longer bolts that mate up to the flywheel through the drain fitting holes, and then thread a big 3/4" bolt through the drain fitting with a washer and nut behind it so that as the big bolt is turned, the pressure is brought against the 4 evenly seated bolts. It took some serious pressure and even then I had to pry on the flywheel to break the corrosion.)
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Dave Wheatley
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Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2011 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Derek, you should be able to swap the flywheel, starter bracket and alternator bracket over. With a bit of messing with the wiring, you should get it all to work. Heavier duty starter cabling needed. I've just done it from a MD11C to an MD2B which had a dynastart.
Dave
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Dave Wheatley
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Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2011 - 02:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

btw Derek, can't help with the gearbox, but can you remember the exact size of the flywheel nut?
Dave
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derekja
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Username: derekja

Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2011
Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2011 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I believe it was 55 mm. I couldn't find a 55 mm socket, so I got a 2 1/8 inch socket and filed out the insides until it fit nicely. (erm, well, until I was able to hammer it on there, actually. nicely didn't really describe much of anything in that cumbersome flywheel removal process...)
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cyberpatch
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Username: cyberpatch

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does anyone have a pushrod for a MD 2B? Any reason this would bend apart from a sticking valve. Am new to this engine.
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mygooma
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Username: mygooma

Post Number: 13
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi cyberpatch, Good Question! My MD1B stopped turning over and when I checked the valves I also found a bent rod which I straigtened out with a rubber mallet. After reinstalling the rod I still can't turn the engine over. I am afraid that I am going to have to tear the engine apart and rebuild it. Good luck with your MD2B and let me know how you make out. MartG.
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cyberpatch
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Username: cyberpatch

Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2011 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi mygooma. Same thing happened. Found that the cam follower had fallen between the block and the camshaft. I'm not sure about straightening pushrods. Have had this in other engines and it's usually gummed up valve guides due to old fuel or bad startup procedure after being laid up for a lengthy period of time. Has anybody got more info on this subject? Grant
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johnroodhouse
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Username: johnroodhouse

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2011 - 06:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi got a problem with the decompression lever on my volvo md2b one is working ok but the other does not push the valve down any ideas john.}
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 97
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Sunday, September 25, 2011 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does the lever move or is it stuck? When you decompress the other cylinder do you still have compression in the cylinder under the non-working lever?

If the lever is stuck try using Kroil on it. If it is not stuck remove yhe valve cover and inspect.
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tangarta
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Username: tangarta

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2011 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,have an md3b good gearbox though motor needs attention lot of smoke hard to start, can get a md17c,full recond (maybe) with no gearbox can anyone tell me if these two motors are inter-changable to this point. and if possible what are the differant make-up points that would make one better than the other. thanks to all,
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Fraser Grigor
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Posted on Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 02:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

VOLVO MD2B

The workshop manual says that for cold starting, the control lever on the injection pump is pushed fully forward (anti-clockwise). Yet experience shows that the control lever, actually, is pulled fully backward (clockwise).

Can someone explain? Thank you.
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 123
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The cold start plunger should be in the down position for cold start. It pops up when the engine starts. Move the control lever and observe which position places the plunger down. That is the "cold start" position.
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Fraser Grigor
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Posted on Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dear Matt Morehouse. Please excuse me if I am being obtuse. But - do you mean that it is the control lever which depresses the cold-start plunger? (Up to date, it is me who has pushed down the cold-start plunger. Which may explain why the engine is unwilling to start from cold). Thank you.
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 31
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

First you have to open the control lever (on the dashdoard) appr. 60% (I think that it is moving clockwise on the injection pump), then push down the cold start button on the injection pump (by hand)and start the engine. With the control lever in closed position the cold start button will jump back in "up position" and is not activated.
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Fraser Grigor
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Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Okay, just one other question, if I may. The engine runs very well when it is running - plenty of power, sounds sweet, not too much smoke, etc. But it is unwilling to start. Assuming I have been setting the throttle in the correct place - why is the engine unwilling to start? What is the single most obvious answer to that? Thank you.
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adsum
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Username: adsum

Post Number: 32
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 05:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Fuel tank empty, fuel tap closed, fuel filter clogged
Air, water or dirt in fuel.
Injectors are not OK.

In this context I think it's air in fuel due to subtle leakage in the fuel supply lines.
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Fraser Grigor
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Posted on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I downloaded a workshop manual for the MD2B from the Internet. But it had been scanned and the scanner had missed data at the bottom of the pages. Warm engine, Exhaust Valve clearance, is 14 thou.But can someone tell me what the warm engine clearance is for the Inlet Valve?

Thank you.
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 33
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Valve clearances warm engine MD2B:
exhaust valve 0.014"(0.35 mm)
inlet valve 0.012" (0.30 mm)
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Eddie Fucci
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Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1975 MD2B that has water in the oil. I was told the head and cylinder are rusted through and need to be replaced. Does any one know where I can perchase these items?
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 132
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A '75 MD2B may be close to the end of its useful life depending on the care it has received.

A replacement head and cylinder are rare items. I would pull the head and cylinder and inspect. These engines were built like cannons so you may very well be able to easily repair yours.

Of the many Volvo MD engines I have rebuilt I have many times been surprised when I opened them. Usually those old heavily rusted hunks of neglected iron were pristine on the inside. Why? Because sailboat engines are seldom run and mostly neglected. They sit in the bilge content to rust much like your old aunt in the rest home.
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mercator30
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Username: mercator30

Post Number: 8
Registered: 01-2012
Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Eddie one possibility might be that the water jacket on the head and/or cylinder has rusted enough to not be able to be sealed with the head gasket. Check the water passages and see how much sealing surface is still avail for the gasket to seal. I may have a spare cylinder lying about that is usable but whether that would help you depends on the condition of the heads water passages.
Love these engines so simple...mine sat unused for 17 years in a neglected ocean moored sailboat and is now a great runner thanks in no small part to some much appreciated tech advice from Matt M.
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 133
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here's a thought; you may be able to sleeve the cylinder with a MD11 sleeve (or any sleeve of the proper diameter). I've never done this but don't see why it couldn't be done.

We used to restore the heads and manifolds by having them brazed and then machined to spec. This requires the attention of an experienced machinist.

Before taking any decisions about the condition of the parts have them thoroughly cleaned either in a hot caustic tank or by electrolysis. Only them can you determine the true condition. You may be pleasantly surprised.

I wish I had saved all the old engines and parts I had. I'd love to breath life back into another one of those old beasts.
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eddie fucci
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Posted on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info Ron and Matt. Sure could use that cylinder Ron. I think I have a lead on the head. My email is e.fucci@hotmail.com.
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mercator30
Member
Username: mercator30

Post Number: 9
Registered: 01-2012
Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Email sent Eddie
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mercator30
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Username: mercator30

Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2012
Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ok be careful what you wish for Matt :-) Seeing how you are going to be living in my neck of the woods soon I may just show up on your porch one day with the spare MD2B engine I have that is need of a rebuild...you've rebuilt one or two of these haven't you?

(smiles)

Ron
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 134
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes, I have but its been awhile. It sure would be fun to do another. At our new home in Oregon I'll have a much larger shop with more room for my lathe, mill, and other metal working tools.

Congrats on your new boat. Why not post a pic for others to admire?
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derekja
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Username: derekja

Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2011
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2012 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow, picking up this thread a year and a half later! (PhD student here... grand plans of working on the boat fail in front of school realities.)

So the mechanical bits of the swap went fine. The new engine I put in there has a heat exchanger and runs antifreeze through the engine rather than seawater. Much happier with that.

The question as I put this all back together is whether to continue to cool the reverse gear with seawater or to plumb it into the antifreeze as well. Main concern is that since it came off of the original engine and has been raw water cooled it's whole life if it's going to contaminate the antifreeze with rust, salt, etc.

Should I just flush it and run antifreeze through that as well?

I guess cooling capacity of the heat exchanger would also be a question. How much heat does the reverse gear generate?

Thanks!

--Derek
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 135
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I wouldn't bother running coolant through the tranny. In all the engines I used and worked on not one was fresh water cooled and they were all salt water engines (San Francisco Bay and Pacific Ocean).

On my boat I would flush the engine every once in awhile with fresh water. If I was not going to use it for several months I would flush it then run anti-freeze in and let it sit.
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eddie fucci
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Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2013 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey,
I am making the first post of the new year! Thanks to Ron and Matt for all the info last year on my Md2b issues. The cylinder and head are rusted through and are not usable as Matt said might be the case. I have since decided to repower my boat with a Beta 20. I was wondering if I should hang on to the old Md2b or just let the marina doing the work keep the motor and tranny? Any thoughts?
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 136
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2013 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you have a place to stow it I would keep it. If not see what the yard would give you for it. If little or nothing let me know.

I've been hankering to breath life back into another one of these old beasts and just might make you an offer you can't refuse.
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cyberpatch
New member
Username: cyberpatch

Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a MD2B that I want to put back together, however I am missing an oil scraper ring for it. Does anyone have one that I could beg, borrow or steal? A used one would be fine.
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adrianallen
New member
Username: adrianallen

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2013
Posted on Monday, February 11, 2013 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am looking for a fuel filter and gasket for a MD2 Volvo Penta approx 1968. Can anyone lead me in the right direction
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 38
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Fuel filter MD2 insert type: Volvo Penta part. no. 876554

http://www.ebay.com/itm/876554-Volvo-Penta-Fuel-Filter-Insert-fits-early-aux-die sels-/110974243712

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