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brianmc
New member
Username: brianmc

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2012
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a sabb 10hp inboard engine, however i have no compression on the starting handle when turning the engine over. has any body any suggestion as to to what could be the problem?}
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 61
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You probably have a valve rusted open. Take off the valve cover on the top of the engine, On the flywheel you will find a 1/8" divit, center punch, on the outside ring. This is the Top Dead Center, TDC. ( you may have to sand off the paint. Move the flywheel around until the TDC mark is at the 12 o'clock position. Both rocker arms should be loose. rotate the engine clockwise, watch the rocker arms move. When one goes down, there should be no clearance on this valve . Keep turning the flywheel for the other valve to open Again there should be no clearance. A rusted open valve will have clearance over the 4 turns of the engine. - Probably the exhaust valve or what ever opens with the decompression level on the valve cover. Squirt some Aero Kroil on the valve stem and let sit for a week.
(I had a valve rust open once when I left the decompression lever down and then when I way for several weeks during the winter)
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bad
New member
Username: bad

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2012
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2012 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Jim - you seem to be one of the active SABB posters on this board - I have a new to me '78 2H, that I've been trying to catch up with maint. wise after a prior owner's neglect. So far have gone over the fuel supply system - new injector nozzles, lifting pump rebuilt, filters replaced, and fuel tank cleaned. Also have replaced the motor mounts and realigned the engine with the variable pitch prop.

Couple of questions that you may be able to help. Looking for a shop manual - I've got the info from the SABB website as to owner's manual and parts, but no shop manual.

Water pump - I have a double diaphram pump that I am rebuilding. Looking at the instructions - does the inner (closer to the engine) metal diaphram washer go conical side to the large rubber diaphram, or does the concave side face it. The instructions are very clear regarding the outer metal disk/washer.

Clutch box - When the clutch is dissengaged and the lever is all the way back it seems to interfere with the pitch adjustment on the prop (interally). I am not sure if that is normal. The one time I ran the engine it developed quite different noises when the pitch was in reverse compared to when it was forward. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much,

Erik
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vundakid
New member
Username: vundakid

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi There-
I have a 1976 Sabb 10hp G and I would like to know what the max operating RPM should be. She runs sweet but it seems that the sailboat it is in is underpowered.
Thanks
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 10
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Manufacturers Specification continuous ratings as follows:

8hp at 1500rpm
10hp at 1800rpm
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 62
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I will take a WAG and say about 1500 RPM. Get a hold of an operating manual.(sabbamerica@aol.com) In the specification it will give you the HP rating at a specific RPM. I have a SABB 2 H and I think the rating is at 2200 RPM but I had to be pushed by the mechanic who overhauled to run it at 2000 RPM. After the first 20 hours I will go back to 1500 RPM
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 11
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Prior response taken from a G manual/manufacturers literature. Note the ratings are continuous so 1800 is the max.

Jim your mechanic is right after the rebuild you definitely want to run it 2000rpm plus for a period of time in order to ensure good ring seat etc, that would be my requirement also if I did the rebuild. Note the 2H is indeed rated continuously at 2200rpm. Also if you choose to run it at 1500rpm continuously I suggest that you every so often increase the rpm and run at 2000 for an hour or so. Diesels need to work hard for their living!
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 63
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Thursday, July 26, 2012 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Nobby, I need to be told that diesels need to work hard. The old cylinder walls were glazed over- probably from baby sitting the engine.
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Sebastian
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Anyone know how to replace the big end bearings on a sabb 10hp gg without buying a new crank from sleeman Hawkins? I can split and rebuild the crank - I just don't know where to get the needle roller bearing - or even it's specs. Any ideas?
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 22
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sabb specifies it as an 'SKF 31 53 93' although I just did a quick search on an SKF needle roller bearing catalogue and found nothing to that spec. They do list it as a separate part (932fb) so you may be able to source it separately. Of course you do realise that should you do it yourself you'll need to check the web shaft alignment in a lathe after pressing back together as well as heating rear web to allow refit of the two pieces of crank back together.

Cheers
Nobby
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Sebastian
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2013 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok, I cut open my big end and I have an SKF 314838A - can you find that in the catalogue?
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 23
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No that was not in there either. The thing is the SKF catalogue that I have does not show a needle roller with the style of outer race that this bearing has at all. I guess try contacting SKF to see if this is custom built for Sabb.

Cheers
Nobby
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Sebastian
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm not worried about the shoulder to locate the con rod - I figure I can have something made for that - if I get a slightly slimmer bearing
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 24
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Personally I found it more cost effective to simply source a new crank as I tend to count my time as part of the fiscal equation. Below is a link to a copy of the SKF needle bearing catalogue that I have on file, hopefully you'll be able to find something that measures up. Have you talked to SKF yet in regards to the bearing number that you have? Or contacted Sabb directly to see if you can source the bearing from them separately?
http://www.skf.com/files/058959.pdf

Cheers
Nobby
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gjackson33
New member
Username: gjackson33

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2013
Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2013 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

remote controls for sabb
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jimdereynier
Senior Member
Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 78
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2013 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

G Jackson- What remote controls are you looking for.

The feathering control : you can make that yourself using a right angle gear box- any size will work but the length of the handle will control the leverage- You want to keep the distance from forward to reverse from 90 to no more than 280 degrees. ( Orginally mine was 2,5 turns- the whole boat yard would come a to stop to watch me jockey the schooner backwards into the slip.)

The fuel cut off can be made from a choke cable.
The accelorator can probably be made from an outboard motor or heavy duty fuel control cable.

The clutch lever - my boat started out with a pull chain to disengage- the first thing I changed. I found a straight lever and drilled in the center to pivot. Then welded a small universal joint ( actually pitoting 3/8 drive socket) on one end of a SS angle iron and a pivoting 90 degree joint on the other end. The OEM clutch handle-I welded something to connect to the 90 degree.
( I never start a project with first visiting a good marine consignment store and scrap metal dealer)
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gjackson33
New member
Username: gjackson33

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2013
Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2013 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sabb 1978 8hp front cranking> We crank and crank and when we turn to compression it stops. I am wondering why it is so hard to turn it over and then why it just stops when we put it on compression. Hasn't been started for a few years. Think we have the remote controls figured out. clutch is disengaged when lever is pulled back towards the stern, right?
'
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JerryTrintella 29
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

looking for directions to rebuild 1968 G series Saab one cylinder diesel water pump. Have parts need directions, corroded bolts etc. Saw a good website but cannot find it after days of searching. Manual has diagram but no real directions.
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macspud
Member
Username: macspud

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2009
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Try looking under Sabb.

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