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Volvo MD2B engine steaming

Old Marine Engine » Diesel Inboards » Volvo MD2B engine steaming « Previous Next »

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savannah
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Username: savannah

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2005
Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Greetings,
I have a Volvo MD2B that I rebuilt over the Winter months, everything including new injectors and heads. When it gets above 125 degrees F it starts to smoke white steam. The engine has more power than ever and isn't losing oil. I have put 6 trips to Catalina on it (about 32 hours). The smoke is just way to much to be normal.

Thanking you and yours in advance, Bryan...
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BILL ALLSEY
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Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

surely it should not reach 125 degrees, our engine runs at 80 and we think we have problems if it goes to 100, have you checked the thermostate is opening
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Rupert
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Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 04:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi

I recently purchased a maxi 95 with a volvo MD2b engine (30 years old abd overhauled about 10 years ago. When starting a warm engine, I loose oil pressure, the oil pressure alarm sets off and the gauge reads 0, but on cold starting the oil pressure gauge reads 4 bar. The sensors have been checked and working properly. Has anyone encountered this problem, is it possible that the oil pump is failing?
Thanks for any info - Rupert
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jack_jones
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Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've got MD2B that is running now at around 80-85 C, not going over 90 C.

The trouble I am having is that the coolant seems to get pushed from head tank cap - there is constant dropping and I need to fill the tank back up on a daily basis.

As far as I can see it should be head gasket replacement job. I'm trying to do it this weekend. If all goes right I'll get it documented in real time on my blog at http://www.omasaitti.fi/jackjones so that I can also ask remote consultation / help easier. I've not done this before.. 8-)
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jack_jones
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Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Regarding the oil pressure.

My engine starts with very high pressure reading and only slowly settles down at around 4-6 level.

I so not know if this is as it should - or do I have a problem, though.. 8-)
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Harold Shewan
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Posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
Regarding loss of oil pressure in MD2b
Check that the engine is not sucking air in at the oil dipstick hole. This needs to be absolutely airtight as it is easier for the oil pump to suck air in through dip stick hole than to suck the oil up from the sump.The strainer inside the dipstick hole strains oil on way to pump.
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amy_ann
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Username: amy_ann

Post Number: 18
Registered: 04-2006
Posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 - 06:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Harold,
Think of what you mentioned there. Kind of hard for an oil pump to work under a pulsating condition due to piston movement if the crankcase was under a sealed condition !
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Murray Charlton
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Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Harold is right
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Shannon Rae
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Posted on Saturday, August 26, 2006 - 01:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello, you guys seem to know about the MD2B, I am looking at a 1972 Pacific 30' sailboat with a MD2B in it that the guy says "needs a valve", has rusty nuts/bolts and spots on it, looks neglected but not dead, and he doesn't want to start it. The clincher here is that I can get the boat for $4,000 Canadian. (2005 survey is average) She was running a few months ago, he says. Are parts hard to get? Can I play around with it, clean it up, get a mechanic to do a checkup, and then how hard are parts to get? I am learning, very keen, and quite handy with tools...thank you.
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Pacific 30
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Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2006 - 02:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Shannon,

If that is the boat I'm thinking of then I have a bit of a story about the engine and the boat.

It was donated to a charity (this was last weekend), and about an hour into the delivery the motor, which had until then been running fine, allegedly began spitting oil everywhere, and the boat had to be towed back.

Considering the price and equipment, even with the motor problems I'd say that that boat is a good buy (assuming it's the one I'm thinking of - in Vancouver, it's got a greenish blue cabin, and a big navy anchor).
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tessera
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Username: tessera

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Monday, August 28, 2006 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey, you are right! Interesting...I did buy it for cheap...$4,000 to be exact...and moved the navy anchor down below...pumped the oil and stuff out of the bilge, (into sealed containers!!!) It looked like there was some oil disaster happening back there, I thought someone came on board and emptied their own oil into the lazarette, and left a bunch of buckets in there too with the same stuff in them! Now that explains that and the fresh oil spots everywhere...

I could tell the engine has been running, but definitely needs some work. I am in process of having her hauled out onto dry land for a few months so I can work on her with no stress/time limits. I will clean up the engine compartment first, then see what's what with a diesel mechanic's assessment, and see how much I can do myself...she feels like she'll be a good boat, she just needs some care, that's for sure.

Do you guys like your MD2Bs?!
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nick on rise and shine
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Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have a md2b in an ingrid ketch on which i have cruised full-time since 1995. i have rebuilt the engine once but it is getting tired again. i am thinking of replacing the engine in thailand. ideally, i would like to find a new md2b sitting in someone's shed. perhaps one that never made it into the "dreamboat". but that is unlikely. does anyone have any suggestions for what might be the easiest and most approprate replacement engine?
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redentur
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Username: redentur

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i just bought an engine md 2b ,but from where i bought it, he didn't give me the dashboard with it! does any one know from where i will buy one please? any idea how much it will cost me?
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redentur
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Username: redentur

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i bought an md2b volvo engine.i am going to fix it on a 16 footx 6 foot wide, fibre glass boat.
What size of propellor should i be looking for ?
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Marta Zegke
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Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Searching for a rebuilt MD2B Volvo engine, preferably near Ensenada BaJa Mexico.
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oldboatnut53
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Username: oldboatnut53

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2007 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i am looking for a diesel injection pump in working condition or a pair of the plunger assemblies to repair the MD2B bosch injection pump can anyone pont me where to try next thanks deane
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sailingerie
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Username: sailingerie

Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2007 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

International Fuel Systems, Inc. rebuilt my bosch fuel injector and pump for my Volvo MD1B back to factory specifications. They are a Bosch dealer and repair shop. Ask for Helge Ro.
International Fuel Systems, Inc.
2101 Sylvania Ave.
Toledo, Ohio 43613
1-800-381-5181
1-419-475-5276
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rwfindersyahoocom
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Username: rwfindersyahoocom

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does any one have suggestions on obtaining parts for a Volve MD2B? Thanks, Alvah
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adsum
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Username: adsum

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 07:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mulder Motoren in The Netherlands delivers all over the world. Most parts of VP MD2B are still obtainable. Not cheap but very reliable.

http://www.muldermotoren.nl/en/index.cfm?action=store.parts.search
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daveg
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Username: daveg

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The gauges on my MD2B no longer work. Anyone have any information on how to replace them.
Thanks
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John Turner
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Posted on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My MD2b after sitting for three months did not build oil pressure when I cranked it before trying to start it.

When I blow into the line for the oil pressure pump I expected it to hold pressure but I hear a bubbling. Would someone tell me if that is the case on a engine holding oil pressure .

It has oil, the dip stick tube seems sealed, I am still scratching my head.

thanks
jt
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corb
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Username: corb

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Thursday, July 09, 2009 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, I need a volvo penta Md2 & or accesories, to Majorca ( Spain ).

Thanks.
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ivansan777
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Posted on Sunday, September 13, 2009 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I need a service manual to the Coventry Victor WN2 N TYPE stationary engine(Nº WN2-l6726) and a service manual to the BTH magneto TYPE MC2- AZ4
(Nº 5H 910296) and a service manual to the Zenith carburetor 24T-2 (FN 42).Thanking you in advance for your attention, I remain Sincerely Yours.
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Sunday, December 27, 2009 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I used to have a business that rebuilt old marine engines. Most were the Volvo MD series.

We sold the business and went into another line of work <www.paracay.com>. I still have a lot of small parts: injectors, injector pumps, lift pumps, new gaskets and shims, hand cranks, starters, alternators, cylinder studs, instrument panels, special tools, transmissions, and misc. nuts, bolts and fuel line fittings.

Rather than piecing this out I want to sell the whole lot for a very reasonable price. Anyone buying it could easily make back the purchase price by piecing it out. I just don't want the hassle.

Also have a Wicox Crittenden bronze marine head which I will sell separately.

The parts are located in Eureka, Ca.

If interested give me a call 707-268-8514
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Chris Roper
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Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I sold my boat and have all these MD2B parts left over. They include the manifold, heads, cylinders, panel including tachometer sensor, transmission, starter, injectors, injector pump etc. Drop me a line at cm.roper0 at gmail.com
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rwfindersyahoocom
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Username: rwfindersyahoocom

Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Any one have, or know of, transmission for MD2B?
Thanks, Alvah, rwfinders@yahoo.com 860-912-6748
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crabby
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Username: crabby

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 07:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just need to get a salt water cooled md2 up and running. Would like to check the anodes in the engine cooling system. ANY specific details of location would be appreciated. Motor is heavily coated by paint. answer to richl@broadpark.no
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 51
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A salt water cooled MD3B does not have an anode.
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puddle_duck
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Username: puddle_duck

Post Number: 28
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi ,
Just a question ,
I have recently changed 2 head gaskets on an MD3b. All is going well , starts and holds revs and idle . No trouble running .
I still have some very light bluish smoke in the exhaust. A bit smelly for crew on a still day.
I get a very small bit of residue on the water after running for a while and when run hard in reverse coming along side.
I presume this is from piston rings etc and I wonder if anyone has similar effects and changed the rings to try and clean up the exhaust . Did it work or should the rings last for the life of the engine and is the work worth it for the slight improvement considering its is a 4o year old engine and cant compare to modern seals etc .
I know certain countries dont allow dirty exhaust when on tour and I would like to try cleaning it up
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ANDY GOLDSMITH
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Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

HI
Do all MD2s drop oil pressure,and at what psi do i start to worry
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puddle_duck
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Username: puddle_duck

Post Number: 29
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there,
I have an MD3b . 1971. starts at 40psi and then drops back to 25 after about an hour of good running .
if it is left on idle for awhile it goes below 25 down to 15 or so , as soon you rev up she climbs back to 25 and stays there.

where does yours range from
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andy goldsmith
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Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2010 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanx for the reply
my oil pressure is much the same but when hot on tick over it drops to 5 psi,any tip for keeping it up ie aditives or heavy oil.
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puddle_duck
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Username: puddle_duck

Post Number: 30
Registered: 02-2010
Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think Im in the same as boat as you. If its pressurizing when running , thats all I would be worried about now.Mine sometimes scares me too especially after running for eight or 12 hours , you pull in to somewhere ,leave it on idle and then shes down to 5-10 .If it starts at 40 and drops off slowly I would not be worried. Mine has been like this for fours years and so far so good. I use a mineral based oil for this old engine. Cant help anymore there.
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Andy Goldsmith
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Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello again i have found a md2b on ebay,what is the differance to my md2. I think that my md2 only has 12hp and the md2b has 25hp, but from the photo they look the same .
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Andy Goldsmith
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Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 03:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello again i have found a md2b on ebay,what is the differance to my md2. I think that my md2 only has 12hp and the md2b has 25hp, but from the photo they look the same .
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 68
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, November 22, 2010 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The MD 1B was produced from 1970to1973 and made 10hp at 2300rpm, the Md 2B was produced from 1970 to 1975 and made 25hp at 2500rpm. Neither engine has sleeved cylinders.

I am not sure but I believe they have the same footprint. The only real difference is in bore diameter and hence displacement.
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adsum
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Username: adsum

Post Number: 24
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

MD2 has 16.5 HP at 2300 rpm and MD2B has 25 HP at 2500 rpm. MD2 has a bore of 79,37 mm and MD2 B has a bore of 88,9 mm. Both have a stroke of 90 mm. MD2's displacement is 0,89 litres and MD2B is 1,12 litres.
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adsum
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Username: adsum

Post Number: 25
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

MD2 was produced from 1964 till 1967
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adsum
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Username: adsum

Post Number: 26
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 01:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Correction of a typical continental European failure in decimal separation...it should be:

MD2 has 16.5 HP at 2300 rpm and MD2B has 25 HP at 2500 rpm. MD2 has a bore of 79.37 mm and MD2 B has a bore of 88.9 mm. Both have a stroke of 90 mm. MD2's displacement is 0.89 litres and MD2B is 1.12 litres.
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larryinboston
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Username: larryinboston

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2010
Posted on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Looking for parts...

Does anyone know of a source for a water temperature gauge for the Penta MD2B? The part number is MO-15237 and it is indicated as being out of production.....no surprise there. Any help will be appreciated. As an alternative, of course, if anyone knows the conversion factor from the sender voltage to the gauge reading that would be a good second best.

Happy Holidays!
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baillie
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Posted on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 07:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am about to take out a MD1B from my boat, more or less everything works, I am only taking it out to replace it with a much lighter petrol engine to improve my ability to race in class. It would be a shame to break it up but I guess that most of the parts are common to the MD1 and MD2 ranges, eg it has a Dynastart, I have seen the price of a reconditioned one (expensive to say the least) so as long as I got a reasonable contribution I would be open to offers.
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jimduffy
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Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just bought an MD2B which was rebuilt in 2007 on which I can (just) turn the flywheel by hand with the decompressors down. Does this mean the compression has gone? Three pevious MD2s I've had were impossible to turn this way. The owner said to start it I should spin it till the oil light goes out then drop the compressors. He said it starts fine for him this way. Any thoughts?
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gaurdian101
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Username: gaurdian101

Post Number: 9
Registered: 09-2010
Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

does anyone know where I can get a service manuel for a volvo md2 don't know anything about this engine and want to check everything out before installing it?
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 53
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You can down load a manual from the net Free !
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 54
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Whoops, I ment to tell you it can be down loaded from Volvo Penta customer support site.
keith
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 71
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've rebuilt many an MD2B and never heard of or used that starting method. You should only have to use the de-compression levers if you have a weak battery or in cold weather and then it should only take a second or so before throwing one lever to get that cylinder firing then the next.

Next time you start it, assuming warm weather (60's+), squirt some engine oil in each cylinder and do not use the compression releases. If it fires right up this could indicate low compression and a need for at least a top end build.

Before doing anything serious take a compression reading.
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md2b
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Username: md2b

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Friday, January 21, 2011 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have an MD2b which was "rebuilt" in 95 and had not run from 96 till 2010 after I purchased the 30ft Dufour it was in. I had the fuel pump and injectors refirbished last winter...
After finding an air lock in the fuel system, it ran steadily at half to 3/4 trottle for about an hour and then died, not to fire again.
-The oil under the valve cover appeared to have water in it.
-There appeared to be no compression in the front cylinder, (compression release made no difference)
-It did not bang, hiss, or scream (Me?..well..)
-I had just bled the fuel system (cranking without starting)and was sailing in large following seas all the day before so suspect water may have been introduced through the exhaust system.
-did not have gages connected...

My question is...
...where should I (actually my brother-in-law, auto diesel mechanic) START in diagnosing this ... and perhaps most importantly when do we STOP!.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nigel
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 57
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2011 - 05:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In two words, Head Gaskets, you will need to get on that without delay otherwise the pistons will lock up in the bore with the salt water, or any water, and could prove very expensive
Keith
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 72
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2011 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would pull the front head, sure sounds like a either a head gasket as oslin04 said or there could be a crack in the head.

Do you have a check valve in your exhaust system? If not I would install one to prevent following seas from invading.
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md2b
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Username: md2b

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2011 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Keith and Matt,
I have a date set with my brother-in-law mechanic on monday to remove the front head and inspect gasket.
Check valve in exhaust? - not YET - it does have a loop nearly 18" above the outlet but if each good wave can splash a tablespoonful through it...
I found a very useful article at practicalsailor.com on Waterlift Exhaust systems , alas, AFTER I had a problem.
I will update after Monday, good or bad.hanks
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jimduffy
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Username: jimduffy

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Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Matt
I squirted some oil into the chambers which then produced more compression when I turned the flywheel. Hope this means it's OK.
Also found a corrosion gap on one cylinder head where it joins with the manifold. The gap seems to have opened up between one water outlet hole and the exhaust outlet hole. Could water get into the cylinder this way?
Jim
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 73
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pull the head and a lot will become very apparent very quick. Did you do a compression check?

After you squirted the oil in did you try to start it?
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jimduffy
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Username: jimduffy

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Matt
The engine is sitting on my trailer at the moment so can't start it up. Planning to crane it into my boat in a couple of weeks, assuming I feel confident about it.
I heard of someone making a plastic resin repair to a cylinder head. Is this worth trying in your opinion? I have a head from a 15 hp MD2 but I imagine the size is different than for this 25hp MD2B. It has a keyhole air inlet compared with the round inlet on the MD2B.
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 74
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If the hole is very minor you might try JB Weld. I did that once with a genset block and it worked fine.

Those heads will not interchange.

If I were you I would mount the engine on wood blocks and get it running to your satisfaction before putting it in the boat. I have a feeling you might have to do some major surgery and that is a lot easier to do in your shop than in the boat.
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 75
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It sure would be a lot more convenient if the most recent posts were listed first.
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jimduffy
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Username: jimduffy

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Matt
The hole is less than half an inch at its widest. I'll try the JB Weld as you suggest, perhaps with a couple of washers bolted together to add some strength.
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matt_morehouse
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Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 76
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, February 07, 2011 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Let us know how it works. I think you should do all this with the engine on blocks.
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Bill Earl
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 06:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a MD2B which to date has bent 3 push rods,has anyone any ideas why this should happen. thanks in anticipation,

Bill.
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 58
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bill, either the valve timing is out, or you have a sticking valve, or the valve clearance is non existant, do not try and straiten out the push rods, replace them.
Keith Marine Engineer
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 77
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bill---I would pull the head before replacing the push rod. The cause should then be readily apparent.---Matt
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jimduffy
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Username: jimduffy

Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2011
Posted on Friday, February 11, 2011 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Matt, everyone,
Another question: There is an inovated T-piece plumbed into the underneath middle section of the manifold. As there are no rubber tubes for the cooling system I'm not 100% sure how to connect it all up. It looks as if I should connect the water pump to one side of the T then, from the other side, go to the lower thermostat fitting. But of course this would partially by-pass the thermostat. Any ideas? Is there any risk of flooding the cylinders?
Jim
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Paul Knaggs
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, February 16, 2011 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a customer's md2b engine in my shop with two bent push rods. It happens to be the forward cylinder (the closest to the timing gears) I have checked the timing-valves-piston everything I can think of but nothing is sticking or damaged except the tappets which are broken around the top where the push rods were hitting them. The owner ran the engine for 3 months after the original noise of the breaking tappets and one of the tappets was completely out of it's hole. Got any thoughts befroe I put it back together with new parts and have the same thing happen.
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R D Dixon Mystic CT
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have an old MD2 (?) in a boat I bought the end of the summer. Had a seal leak in the water pump that let h2o into the crank case (white goop) ran well regardless (ran it for a few oil changes hoping it was condensation) While winterizing flushed (briefly) with kero, then new oil. Still some white goo and I hope the condensation that might occur does not cause sticky valve or other parts.
Any suggestions to increase my odds? It seemed to run strong. I believe it is a MD2 but not sure. How does one tell??
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 82
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Might be a blown head gasket or cracked head. I wouldn't run it until repaired. It will just get worse and cause more damage like a swallowed valve. Pull the heads. If it is a gasket it will be obvious. A cracked head may require a pressure test to diagnose.

The MD2 has 15.5 hp and a bore of 79.37mm. It was made from 64 t0 67. The MD2B has 25 hp and a bore of 89.9mm. It was made from 70 to 75.
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Jim Hammell
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Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1971 MD2B in my Dufour 31'. My Volvo has a piggy backed water pump, first is the raw water intake which discharges to the exhaust and the inlet to the smaller water pump. The discharge of this smaller inner pump goes to the thermostat inlet and then the engine. I am looking for an impeller,seals and gasket for the smaller inner pump, none of the parts suppliers seem to have this dual pump setup in the parts breakdown. Any help is appreciated
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kevman1421
New member
Username: kevman1421

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2011
Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2011 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Matt,

I just saw your post on the Volvo MD2 on the board and was wondering if you might let me know where you found the production years of the MD2 & MD2B.

I don't doubt you at all but I cant seem to find it anywhere on the web except for parts searches.

It seems there must have been a couple years, (1968 & 69) where production ceased before the MD2B was released?

My manual says that both are cast iron cylinders and neither are sleeved , is that correct?

It also has some errors showing MD2 engines and calling them MD2Bs and this is the Volvo Penta factory manual on PDF.

If you could let me know I would greatly appreciated it.

thanks much,...Kevin
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rodrigo
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Username: rodrigo

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2011
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi All, one of our techs has an MD2b on his sailboat and he would like to rebuilt the engine, does anybody knows of an inexpensive place to purchase the parts and perhaps a local mechanic in the Miami-Fort Lauderdale area?
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 93
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

kevman---Sorry to take so long to reply, I missed your post. I have a table that lists all MD's between 1958 and 1985. Send me a fax number and I'll fax it. I'm sure it came from Volvo but have no idea when or where I got it.

The MD2 and MD2B both had cast iron cylinders. The MD11C, MD11D, MD17C and MD17D had steel cylinder liners.

Matt 707-268-8514
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Lbono
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Anybody experience oil backing up in the oil filter and spitting out the gasket? This is a MD21A The relief valve was cleaned- x3! Oil filter is changed....
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Jim Stehl
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, April 14, 2012 - 08:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello: I may buy a boat with an MD2B, low hours, that's been out of service, stored indoors, for seventeen years, presumably winterized. Does a motor age while just sitting still? I am wondering whether its age and inactivity alone make for a bad outlook, and whether a survey will be able to answer that question. Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 121
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, April 14, 2012 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Before trying to start it I would change the oil and fuel then release the compression and turn it by hand for at least a few dozen revolutions.

Does the oil look clean? That would be a good sign that it has been winterized. Is it fresh or salt water cooled? Either way it should have some type of anti-freeze if it has been properly winterized.

Has the battery been disconnected or removed? It should have been.

Install a new battery, turn it with no compression and see if it builds oil pressure. If it does drop one compression release and see if she speaks to you.

I would do all this before buying the boat.
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jon
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Username: jon

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I need a teeth count for the new tach that I will be installing, is this teeth count coming from the camshaft gear directly below where the rev wires come out? Dose anyone know the teeth count for the timing gear for the MD2b?
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Blair Trewartha
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 06:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Anyone got any spares for a MD2b? mainly interested in cylinders but anything concidered
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peregrine
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Username: peregrine

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1975 MD2B in a Contest 33 (built Alkmaar, Holland) ... in warm weather it steams more than it used to.

But a more immediate problem is that the water pump, though rebuilt, does not pump. With this photo, the mechanic has diagnosed wear in the internal connection to the camshaft (the two grooves are apparently where the water pump shaft connector has worn away the flange to which it should attach).

Three questions:

1. Is the flanged shaft replaceable without pulling the engine* (e.g. using a deep socket on the hex head surrounding the worn flange)?

2. Failing #1, has anyone tried converting the pump to belt-driven (mounting on the front of the engine -- like the alternator -- with a pulley on the pump's shaft)?

3. Failing #3, would a brushless 12V water pump, activated before starting the engine, work as a coolant pump (bypassing the mechanical pump entirely)?

[*If I have to have the engine pulled, I'll do things like pulling the prop shaft, which can only be done with the engine out, etc. etc., so the labour will make it so expensive I should replace the MD2B with a new D1-30. Only problem with that is that I'd have to sell the boat to recoup the cost. clipart{sad}]

Peregrine's internal water pump shaft connection\
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peregrine
New member
Username: peregrine

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

BTW, for option #3, this is the pump I'm considering (a lot of electric pumps max out at 12V and my charging system is regulated at higher than that).

http://bit.ly/JFwiXH
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 34
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 05:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

About the worn cam: On the picture in the workshop manual of MD2 it looks like a replaceble part (I don't have a workshop manual of MD2B). Then it is replaceble without pulling the engine. I presume that the screw thread fastens while operating so I don't know wheter it's a right or left turning thread.
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peregrine
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Username: peregrine

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thank you, Adsum.

A Volvo mechanic showed me the exploded diagram of the part this morning, and part of that shaft (on the MD2B) is too large to pull through the opening, meaning the whole cover would have to come off -- with the engine out of the boat. (He had an MD2B in the shop, with the cover off.)

He did, however, independently suggest option #3, so that's what I'm proceeding with, in hopes that I can postpone the repowering for another few years.
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 35
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2012 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

On your picture it looks like if the outside diameter of the flange is smaller then the inside diameter of the opening, but I havent seen the real thing.

Option 3 seems to be the easiest solution of the problem. But then you have to solve some design problems first. To choose the right pump you must know the performance requirements. Dry priming performance will not be an issue in this application. A similar Jabsco pump has a flow rate of approx. 35 litres per minute (LPM) at 1500 rpm (the camshaft of MD2B does less, mine does unloaded approx. 1300) and 10 LPM at 500 rpm (crankshaft speed is 1000 rpm). How do you synchronize the pump speed with the engine speed? You need a BLDC motor control that is controlled by the rev counter signal (0-10Volt???) or by the engine temperature (which is technically the best solution). A real challenge for an electronical engineer.
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nobby
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Username: nobby

Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2005
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In my manuals (MD2 and MD2B) they call the piece you are after (pump drive) a flange bolt or carrier bolt. Furthermore it is separate to the cam discs behind it which indeed would not pass through the hole. Now if you look carefully at the picture you can see that the pump drive is indeed a hex head bolt, furthermore looking at a parts diagram (MDB2) it does indeed show a bolt with a separate washer behind it. So IMHO you should be able to remove it separately with no problems and my manual states as others have already suggested that it is left handed thread so perhaps give it a go. It makes sense to me that the bolt is separate to the discs behind it as they are keyed to the shaft and could not turn with the bolt anyways. When reinstalling the bolt the torque is 58ft/lb.

Should you for whatever reason choose to create a separate pump then if I were you I'd belt drive it rather than electric drive it. That way it is not reliant on another system and no matter where your electrics are at you can still run the engine. Drive it 2:1 from the crankshaft (bigger pulley on the pump) and it will be exactly the same as the original drive speed. However I would not get to worried on drive speed such as with the electric pump as the thermostat should take care of excess water if functioning correctly.

Your best bet is to repair that drive though and by my reckoning that as a bolt will indeed come out.
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peregrine
Member
Username: peregrine

Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks nobby (and adsum) ... I will try to get up my nerve to put a socket on the flange bolt! I suppose even if the part isn't available, I could have a machine shop repair the flange itself.
Meantime, I'm going to try the electric option for the short term (at least to get me to the mast crane!).
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peregrine
Member
Username: peregrine

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nobby, does your MD2B manual have a part number for the flange bolt (carrier bolt), perchance?
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

807031

For your future reference you can find it here.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/choose_schematics.shtml
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adsum
Advanced Member
Username: adsum

Post Number: 37
Registered: 01-2008
Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

807031 is obsolete but it looks like an easy to remake part based on a off-the-shelf bolt. By filing away material of the head you can create a cam that fits the groove of water pump shaft.
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peregrine
Member
Username: peregrine

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thank you both!
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If it were me I would just build up your existing bolt with a bronze rod, just like you would a broken gear tooth and then just machine it. You could even do it by hand and it would be fine. Looks like you have enough remaining to get a dimension from as a guide.
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ladyp
New member
Username: ladyp

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2012
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have fitted a new dynastart to a rebuilt MD2 engine, but can't get the charging light to go out. Engine starts and runs. Can you advise me please?
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matt_morehouse
Senior Member
Username: matt_morehouse

Post Number: 127
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Put a multi-meter on the battery and note the voltage without starting the engine. Then start the engine and note the voltage. If it is 4-5volts higher your Dyna-start is working and your idiot light isn't.
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ladyp
New member
Username: ladyp

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2012
Posted on Monday, October 08, 2012 - 04:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dear Matt,
Thanks for advice, found it to be an earth wire corroded and it seems to be working fine now - but I only get 3.5 volts higher. Is this okay?
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Antonio Durall
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I need for my Volvo Penta MD2B one reverse or connecting components reverse. Do you know where I can get them or anyone can give me advise? I live in the south Europe area, Barcelona.

My contact info is:
Antonio Durall
antonio@durletapartments.com

Thank you very much
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peregrine
Member
Username: peregrine

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2012


Posted on Wednesday, May 08, 2013 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

So last summer I installed the electric water pump, bypassing entirely the mechanical one. It works well and reduced the steaming, which may indicate that the mechanical pump was failing gradually over a few years and the engine was running hot (although the temperature gauge didn't indicate a problem).
I thought I had a problem winterizing (couldn't get antifreeze through the exhaust) but that turned out to be because I left one draincock open ... corrected that at launch and all seems well for another season.
Water flow with electric pump
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Lloyd MacDonald
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2014 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I need a used MD2B head. Any hope?
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mercator30
Member
Username: mercator30

Post Number: 14
Registered: 01-2012
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2014 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've got a spare MD2B Head Lloyd. PM me.

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