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Perkins marine diesel engine [ 6.354 ]

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zed
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Username: zed

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2006
Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello everybody
Can anyone tell me all details and specifications of this engine , I can't find much on perkins pages ,also I think that this engine is produced in 1971.
Because oil cooler of transsmition is from that date
and all parts are original..Like I sad it;s original marine engine and I am desperate about finding specifications on this one!!}
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 166
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Friday, May 12, 2006 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What would you like to know?Its about 98 continous hp at 2200rpm.This engine was made in differant versions and in differant countries.To really know what it is find the serial number on the front left side close to the injector pump.Most anything you need can be had from valu-bilt look under massy fergeson.Napa has some parts too.
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ed mc
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Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

how do i purge air from my fuel system my 1972 180 hp perkins diesel has vapor lock and i cant seem to get fuel to all of the injectors
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi ed mc,
You May be dragging air in to the system? start from the tank and check you do not have any over tightened olives causing air leaks,also check the lift pump is working ok, bleed the first filter you come to in the line from the tank, then any filters mounted on the engine followed by the injection pump, if it is an in line injection pump there may be two bleed nipples there, make sure the fuel flow is clear with no bubbles.
I do not normally bleed the injectors, i crank the engine over at full throtle setting and they will self bleed.
Hope this helps, if not you will have to carefully check all the lines and fittings, and strip the lift pump to look for faults in the valves or diaphram.
regards Keith. Marine Engineer
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

P.S. ed mc. i also meant to say check the rubber filter seals and if all this fails, you will have to get the injector pump rebuilt.
Keith.
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 227
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You have the verticle CAV rotary injector pump and it has 2 places to bleed air. If it was really pumping on some cylinders it would try to run on just those. Its more likely its not really pumping the preasure the injectors need.
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Jim Hall
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Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am trying to identify a 6cyl inline naturally assperated perkins marine diesel engine where are the serial numbers located? both motors have what i assume is a casting number located on RH side of block above oil pan gasket? 37114670 any and all info would be helpfull hp? year? venurability?
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 297
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The serial numbers are on the right angle drive base just below the injector pump. i don't have all the 354 serial numbers,but i have most of the north american made engines. The old numbers start with 354 the newer ones have letter prefixes which tell where they were made.
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Roberto Pessanha
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Posted on Tuesday, July 29, 2008 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello,
I`ve a Mercedes Benz/MTU Marine OM-352A . Changing damaged engine oil cooler, mounted high in the engine, noticed there are two check valves on oil inlet and outlet connections. Are the valves mandatory ? What´s the function ?? The new cooler i bought has no valves.
Thanks in advance
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 309
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Normally check valves are to keep the cooler or other parts full,so they don't drain out when not running. This is a big help in raiseing the oil preasure quickly when the engine is started after sitting a while. Otherwise the oil pump has to fill the cooler and other parts before you get any preasure. It allso helps keep the oil pump primed, some engines have that problem. I would think you would only need one.
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georgerb
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Username: georgerb

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2008
Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2008 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I recently replaced an impeller on the saltwater side of the cooling system. I had to loosen a zinc nut on the system to let air out so that water would flow. It seemed to work. Went back several days later, started engine, no raw water in exhaust??? Why or how could I be loosing prime?
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alan112233
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Posted on Monday, February 02, 2009 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi,
have a diesel perkins engine occasionally when at idle it will rev up to max reves and stay there for a few minutes, any ideas on what it could be
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ron_heitmann
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Username: ron_heitmann

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2009
Posted on Monday, February 02, 2009 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

alan. check for air in fuel. many older units have hydrolic governors and they are quite sensative to air in fuel. check fuel return for air while running engine.
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sailmaster
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Username: sailmaster

Post Number: 7
Registered: 11-2006
Posted on Tuesday, February 03, 2009 - 07:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The fuel system is under a vacuum up to the lift pump and after that it is under pressure. If you are sure you have no air leaking in the system before the lift pump move onto the return line. Make it is not leaking by putting a hose on it and running it into a can of fuel, making sure it is submerged. Then pump the fuel through the system by hand or with an electric fuel pump while bleeding the bottom bleed screw on the injector pump, then bleed the top bleed screw after shutting the bottom. When all the air is out, then break the fittings at the injectors and crank the engine until you se fuel squirting out. Tighten the fittings and start the engine. If it does not start, repeat the process. If it still does not start and there you are sure there is no air leaking you probable need the injector pump and injectors rebuilt. Make sure that the lift pump ,is working before you go to all the trouble. You can fit a cheap electric pump in its place to check.
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David Roots
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Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 08:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Perkins 6-354 marine engine with the wrong dipstick (the marks are in the wrong place for my engine). The possible oil capacity is listed in the manual as between 20 and 52 pints depending on the sump casting type, so I do not know where to put new dipstick marks on my stick.
I assume the oil level limits in all such engines are the same, relative to the crankshaft, with the sump capacity being the only variable.
Can anyone give me measurements from the bottom of the engine casting to the "full" and "empty" marks on their dipstick?
And am I on the right track?
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drydock
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Username: drydock

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Monday, August 17, 2009 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Folks, I have a Perkins 6-354.& a Borg Warner transmission I had the engine completely rebuilt and it purrs like a kitten, I put it into my boat but it turns out to be way to big for it. I got some really bad advice from my boat builder. I'm looking to sell the engine and transmission.
It turns out that I need a 40 hp diesel not a 130hp diesel. Anyone interested?
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luis Diaz
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Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 01:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

drydock what are the dimensions of the engines?
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riccardo193
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Username: riccardo193

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 03:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi i have a 12 volt couter rotating starter motor for sale for the perkins 6354 engine if any one is interested
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scottie5
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Username: scottie5

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

looking for information on winterizing a 6.354.4
mostly on the intake salt water side, is there a drain plug or flush tube, the best way to inject antifreeze.
thanks
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BillMcGrath
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Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2009 - 03:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi everyone, I have Perkins 6.354.4 turbocharged diesels in our boat. The starboard engine blew a check valve (one of 6 on the side of the injector pump), which my mechanic replaced. We started the engine and it ran fine for the few minutes we took to adjust the idle, then I shut it off. I tried to start it a couple of days ago, but it just turned over, not even a cough like it was trying to start. Air in the fuel line? Injector pump? My mechanic is out of the country for the next couple of weeks.
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CLIFF STAPELLA
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Posted on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I HAVE A PERKINS 6-354 THAT HAS WHITE SMOKE COMING OUT THE EXHAUSE, BUT THE ENGINE RUNS OK. i HAVE TWINS AND THE OTHER ENGINE DOES NOT HAVE WHITE SMOKE? aNY IDEAS? tHIS HAS ALWAYS DONE THIS SINCE i OWNED THE BOAT.
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doyle
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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Im looking for a 1965 mercedes heat exchange manifold marine.need badly any advice where to find would be appreciated.thanks
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drdetroit
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Username: drdetroit

Post Number: 22
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

CLIFF...
Does your 'smoker' keep up with it's twin as far as power & temp? I put one together and had injection timing late one tooth, hard to start, tons of white smoke but warmed up and ran good, Does the smoke clear once warmed? could be low compression.....
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drdetroit
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Username: drdetroit

Post Number: 23
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

BILL..
Bleed - Bleed - Bleed, Perkins are a pain in the wazoo to get fuel to the injectors, Bleed the filter head, bleed the injection pump, Pump the hand primer, AND then crack the injector lines, spin the engine to push out any remaining air (air compresses in the injection pump and high pressure lines and will not build pressure to push the air through the injectors... Good luck.}
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davemcdougall
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Username: davemcdougall

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Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 07:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My name is dave. I head up a kid's charity which takes under privileged kids fishing and crabbing. For years now we have been using a volunteer flotilla, but have recognised the need to buy our own boat. I have purchased a 30' ex-cray which is powered by perkins 6.354. Today I have got it running and am v.happy with it. The previous owner just bolted the engine in and never ran it (it was a replacement motor). Consequently nothing ws hooked up. I have managed to connect everything that needs to be conected except the transmission fluid cooling thing. At the bottom of the bilge is a cylindrical thing which is connected to the trans with two hoses. It also has a water inlet and outlect hose so I assume it is meant to cool the ATF. My question is: Does the water going to the ATF cooler need to come via the engine coolong pump, or can I get it straight from an inlet hose, ie does the ATF cooler suck its own water, or must I pump water to it? I don't want to use water from the engine cooling line if I don't have to. I am concerned about compromising my engine cooling efficiency. Currently the hoses are not connected to any water source at all. Thanks for any response.
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 38
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Dave,
Normally the sea water is drawn through the oil cooler by a Jabsco pump on its way to the engine, the pump is driven by the engine and will suck it up, I must admit I have not heard of that type of cooler normally they are a tube mounted alongside the engine, so is the raw cooling water drawn in through that unit? which would make sence or through a seperate sea cock which would be the standard instillation, if it is the former is there a sea cock on it? if not you will need to fit a cock close by it in the event you need to shut it off.

hope this helps
Keith. Marine Engineer.
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davemcdougall
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Username: davemcdougall

Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thankyou very much Keith. There are two sea cocks on the boat, however it looks as if the starboard one was originally for something else, perhaps a deck wash down pump, I'm not sure. Are you saying that I can bring my sea water up, through my jabsco pump,then pipe it to my oil cooler, then from there bring it to my engine? I wonder if the oil cooler might heat that water up too much before it gets to the engine thereby compromising my engine cooling? If you are basically saying that Oil coolers dont heat the cooling water up very much, and that the water coming out of the oil cooler is still going to be adequate for engine cooling then I'll go ahead and plumb it up that way.
Thank-you very much for your correspondence. It is much appreciated here.
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 39
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Wednesday, April 07, 2010 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi dave, Yes that is what I am saying, Sea Cock to Jabsco then to the oil cooler and on to the raw water side of the engine (heat exchanger and water cooled manifold) and out through the exhaust bend, this will be fine and not compromise the engine cooling at all.
Keith
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davemcdougall
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Username: davemcdougall

Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

does the return line from the injector pump come off the top or the bottom of the injector pump? Also, does the fuel coming into the injector pump on a perkins 6.354 come into the bottom of the injector pump, or go into the top?
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 392
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats a harder question then you might think. The return is on the top, but it goes back to the filter and a small bleed off line connects to the main return. Most fuel goes in the bottem, but when empty some can flow through the top too. I think thats right. Do you have the 2 filters the same size?
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 393
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you have that double filter thing it has arrows cast into the top just above the lines connected to it.
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 394
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I asked on another board and they say it goes in the top.
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Merwe
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Posted on Monday, April 19, 2010 - 03:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,i have a 6.354 that i just overhauled.Problem is that it wont start at all.I did bleed it well,There is no air left in the system,i have also took one injector out to see if it sprays right and it does.The engine's timing is also correct.I set the injector pump's timing so that when piston no 1 is tdc,the head rocks on no 6.At the same time i set the injector pump on the letter F.Is this correct,why wont it still start?ps. the engine did start before the overhaul.
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 396
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Monday, April 19, 2010 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In the pump window the f mark is lined up with the scribe mark. The flywheel is bdc on the 28 or 30 degree mark. NOT TDC. Older engines made in the 60's are set at 28 the newer engines are set at 30. It seems that this is way too early but realy it is a way to time the pump sitting still. When running the timeing will be right.
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kellym
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Username: kellym

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Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Sunday, June 06, 2010 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

trying to use the power takeoff shaft behind the injection pump on a 6354 perkins to pull a hydraulic pump.can anyone tell me if this shaft turns the same rpm as the crank,and will it take side thrust using a pulley and belt system?
also,is there a hydraulic pump built for this engine that is set up for direct drive off the power takeoff?
thank you
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 420
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The only things i have seen driven there are very small and not useing much power. Hydrolic pumps are driven by belts from the crankshaft.
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zed
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Username: zed

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2006
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello everybody
I have this perkins marine 6.354 from 1972.
and my starter motor is on 24 volts , I am having trouble with electrics constantly,now i decided to change complete instalation on 12 volts and for that i of course need starter motor for this engine with 11 teeth on 12 volts,also as old engine mine (than there were made left hand and right hand rotation in cases there are two engines in the boat.) is of course right hand rotation ( 15 % of them ) so i would need a left hand rotation starter motor(when you look it from the dinamo to the axle with teeth)

If anybody can sell me one of those or maybe give me a link where i can get a second hand one for purchasing..

Thanks very much!
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 421
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A good rebuild place might be able to do the job.
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rose2005
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Username: rose2005

Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
i am going to change the oil in my sabb 10 hp gg,
will a 10/40 multi grade be ok?

Chris.
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jimdereynier
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Username: jimdereynier

Post Number: 32
Registered: 08-2007
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Rose2005- Engine oil on Sabb 2H calls for 30 WT diesel oil. Definitely do not use multi-weight and must be rated on the side of the can for diesel engines.
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binka
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Username: binka

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Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hi can any one help me i am after a exhaust water jacket manifold
for my perkins 6.354 i can be contacted on 07781-163608
thxs binka ps i will be on holiday from 12/6 untill 26/6 but can e-mailled at binka @cwgsy.net
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Alwyn Noseda
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Posted on Monday, June 14, 2010 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello,
I have a Ranger 4 series, 240, in my motor boat. The cap on the front of the heat exchanger, one thread has been stripped and a helicoil had been fitted before my ownership. There has been a leak detected and when removing the cap the helicoil has removed with the stud. I am not sure what measures to do now. Can the heat exchanger be repaired with maybe another helicoil or some such device, or is there a better way to fix the stud into the casting? On looking at the threaded casting, it doesn’t look good.
Hoping for some advice, Kind regards, Alwyn
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sean nartiff
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Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2010 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello I have what I believe is a 1971 Perkins diesel 6.345 I checked the engine near the injector pump for the serial #'s but can't see them anywhere?? Anyway my question is; When I first start motor and run it out of the bay I can run it up to approx. 2,500 RPM. Then after running for awhile about 20 minutes the rest of the time I'm out I can only get 2,300 RPM. Anyone have any idea what might be causing this???
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larry_from_md
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Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 12
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Monday, August 02, 2010 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A fuel restriction would be the thing for a loss of speed, but it usually gets worse and is the same when cold. So suspect something else. Could the tac. be bad its a common problem on older ones. Allso look to see if the throttle lever is getting pushed all the way open. Allso see if the cut off is not hanging up, part way open.
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dinko zanko
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Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello rikardo 193.
Do you still have this starter motor for perkins 6.354? and is it counterclockwise?
thanks!
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diethard
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Username: diethard

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Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 06:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

we need a used heat exchanger for a perkins 6.345 . Who can help us? Yacht stays in Turkey
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Doug Sherman
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Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1971 Luhrs with twin Perkins 6.354 engines. Both engines are turboccharged. I have been told that they are 165 hp but looking on line I see 135 hp or 240 hp. Anyone got an answer?
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larry_from_md
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Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 14
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There are differant kinds of hp ratings and adds to the confusion. The lower 135 is about what you get for constant horsepower. The higher 165 is about what you get for maximum horsepower. The 240 seems way out of line.
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Doug Sherman
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Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info Larry. Any idea what the ratio is on the tach drive? I have electronic tachs below which run off of the alternators but the bridge tachs appear to be the original electronic ones and are driven by a small electronic drive unit located on the front port corner of the engine. I am going to have a tach shop up in Sacramento look at them but the guy told me that it would help if I knew the gear ratio. Any help is appreciated.
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larry_from_md
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Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 15
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I think its 1 to 1 on that little shaft that sticks out.
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Doug Sherman
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Posted on Thursday, August 26, 2010 - 03:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Larry
Just had all of my tachs and pulse generators checked out. Seems that one generator is putting out about 3/4 volts and the other is putting out about 1.1 volts. Then the 2 pulse tachs are old and not working correctly plus the fact that the 2 lower helm alternator run tachs are actually for generators, not alternators and one is bad anyway. Any sources for good pricing on either alternator tachs or new pluse generators and tachs? Need 3 3/8" and 0-3000 or 3500 rpm. Need to be able to run both upper and lower helm for each engine. Thanks.
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larry_from_md
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Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 19
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Thursday, August 26, 2010 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No thats too high teck for me.
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gregtops
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Username: gregtops

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2010
Posted on Thursday, September 16, 2010 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have naturally fed 6354. White smoke on startup and reving. Doesnt go away but then the engine really doesnt get hot either. Stays just above cold also wont heat the water. got around 50lb plus of oil pressure. Will a thermostat help keep the engine at a reasonable running temperature and maybe fix th ewhite smoke. Also got to bleed it fi i leave it for more than 6 days. Just loosen all injectors, kick her over and within 30 seconds she is happy and will start. Have all but given up finding air. Pumped that silly manual fuel pump lever until my hand was gunna fall off. What a silly idea that is. Once she is up and running i can cruise all day without problems. Any ideas on the thermo and white smoke from to cool issue people
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 40
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 16, 2010 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Gregtops, you must still have air in the system, as this is an on going problem check the fuel lines from the tank if there is an over tightened olive it can leak air on the suction side, bleed the system the same way the fuel flows ie first filter second filter (if there is one ) and lower bleed on the pump and last the hydraulic governor on the top, then with full throttle either turn the engine over until it starts of crack the injector nuts until you see fuel and tighten,
Re the thurmostat yes the engine will be smokey if it is not up to temp, they are smoky from cold anyway, half drain the closed cooling system and change it topping up afterwards, if this does not cure it you will have to have a look at the injection timing.
Keith
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marky_mark
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Username: marky_mark

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello,I am looking for a complete oil,transmission and turbo cooler assembly or just a good turbo cooler assembly for a perkins 240hp 6.354.4 engine 1987 model year.Please email me with any info thanks. email is johnsonmnt@msn.com
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Chuck Hutchinson
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Posted on Friday, October 22, 2010 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

6.354 perkins: I am in need of two cam gear covers and two front tappet covers. These engines were under leaking floor board and covers rusted through. Also could use water pump seal kits for fresh water pumps. Both engines are left hand. Will need one starter, 12 volt and a fuel return rail for top of injector nozzles. I can't seem to find these parts on the web. Help!!! chuck
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 430
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Friday, October 22, 2010 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That engie was made over a long period of time and in differant countrys so the valve covers vary in styles and are not interchangeable.Get your serial number and try valu-bilt 888-828-3276
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Trevor Hobden
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Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Just to let every one know that i have a spare secondhand heat exchanger tube for sale it was for the Perkins Turbo Diesel engine 6.354.The reason for sale is because it was a spare when we bought our boat (Broom Sedan 37)and now we no longer have the boat and this exchanger is just sitting in out garage for more info please email ,you will be able to see pictures of this as we are going to put it on Ebay.
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opamox
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Username: opamox

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
I like to know what 6 cylinder engine this is; numbers what i found on the motor are 37186410/1 and MC 25009-1 and 1329/915 and SK 7575. If you have any glue plz tell me thank you.
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 432
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Those don't look like 354 numbers got some good pictures.
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opamox
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Username: opamox

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
Here is some pictures
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opamox
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Username: opamox

Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

here is more
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opamox
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Username: opamox

Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Are those Perkins motors at all?
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 434
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hard to see in those pic.I do see that all the numbers you posted are casting numbers, not a serial number.Do you have the verticle injector pump that is a telltale for a 354 and the serial number is near the base of that pump.The diamond like casting on the valve cover is seen on perkins engines.In the early 60's they made a 6 cylinder with a shorter stroke than the 354.I have never seen one in person.Those 3 casting numbers lined up like that looks familar, i can look around tomarrow.
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opamox
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Username: opamox

Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I Find serial numbers for both engines 1. 3543U7807T 2. 3543U4437T year,model,hp? both are turbo engines.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 435
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok those are good numbers. The U in the number means they were made in the united kingdom(england),and the T means they were made in 1989. The hp. might be 130 to 150 depending on speed.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 436
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2010 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

One more thing the model number would be like T6,354.3 this makes it a dot 3 engine (late model) and should have the big high mounted waterpump with 2 thermostats. One thermo blocks the recirculation hole when it opens.They allso have the new valve covers with the bolts on the outside not down the center, mush easyer to get sealed good.
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rod
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Username: rod

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi I was trying to locate a water cooled exhaust manifold to suit a 45hp lister HRW3 diesel motor.Any help greatly appreciated
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LeeCarlson
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Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1981 Perkins 6354. I'm having problems with intermittant starting. I turn the key, get the buzzing, wait a few seconds and turn the key. Nothing. Try it again. Sometimes it turns over and starts, sometimes not. Usually by about the third or fourth try it will turn over. Starts right up so there is plenty of voltage reaching the starter motor when it does start. I have replaced all battery cables, starter cables, starter motor, key switch, and nothing seems to have solved the problem (all those components were old, so I wanted to replace them anyway as part of my continuing refit of the boat.) Any ideas on why this might be happening? Thanks.
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solarrog
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Username: solarrog

Post Number: 452
Registered: 03-2002


Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Did you change the starter solenoid ?
is there an interlock that stops the starter from working till the preheater reaches tempature?
just a couple of random thoughts
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oslin04
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Username: oslin04

Post Number: 45
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi LeeCarson,
Well if you have changed all that it must be the earth to the engine or battery, that is assuming the starter switch is good, try by passing the starter switch on the dashboard and check low tention cable from the switch to starter motor with a meter, if that does not help clean all the earths from the engine to the battery, grease and replace, some starters use the securing bolts as the earth to the block and an earth to the battery from there, you might also try an earth link from the starter casting to the block, use a jump lead to test it, and if it is faulty fit a link wire each side of the bolt after cleaning.
Keith Inglis. Marine Engineer.
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one9
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Username: one9

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Tuesday, November 30, 2010 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi
I have a Perkins 6.354 turbo charged. Im trying to find out how hard is it to re-build a holset turbo. A local diesel shop didnt want to do the job because it is very rusty. Is it worth it to rebuild or get a new one. Also what other options do I have with other brand turbos.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 443
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't know that brand, but from my experince getting turbos rebuilt is hard to get good results. Evan if you turn in the old one and get a factory rebilt one, you only have 50/50 chance of getting a useable one back.I have opened newly rebuilt ones from dealers and found them defective just by looking at them and had to send them back.Most places don't want to rebuild them as it often has to be done over or replaced when something bad happens.They are now makeing turbos with plactic vanes with evan poorer results.
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one9
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Username: one9

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats not good. Do you know what other brands make a turbo for this motor. I cant seem to find a cross reference online.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 444
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I guess a perkins dealer would be the place to try. I know the farm stuff and those places want the turbo number + the farm machine its in, so they might not help you. You could try www.shoupparts.com and look for a massy ferguson 1135 tractor, but no way to know if the manifolds are the same.
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chongqingbeyond
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Username: chongqingbeyond

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2010
Posted on Wednesday, December 29, 2010 - 03:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We supply perkins engine spare parts for 1004 Series, 4-236 Series etc

contact us:

CHONGQIGN BEYOND INDUSTRIAL CO.,LTD

CHONGQING AIHUA EQUIPMENT CO.,LTD

Add.: 1-11-2, Open K city, No.66, JinYuan Rd.Jiangbei district,

Chongqing, China

Tel: 86-23-86879556 Fax: 86-23-67748361

Mobile:86-13883027443

E-mail: beyondmoto@gmail.com

MSN:cq_flying@yahoo.com.cn

skype:motor.lily
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Kevin king
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Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi all I have 1986 perk ins t6-345m engine I have had a recent service 750 hrs but is it normal to burn 4 litters of engine oil in 14 hours use
It blows blue smoke on start up and continues a little while idling
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kent markson
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Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

im trying to buy the right prop for a luhrs 1965 with a perkins diesel engine can you tell the hp and gear ratio from that info?
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patrick moran
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Posted on Friday, June 17, 2011 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I replaced the 6.354 Perkins motor in my massey ferguson 1130 tractor. Old motor serial number 354UA5661T. New motor serial number 354U64436. Is it o.k. to install the original turbocharger on this motor? The original flywheel bolted up to new motor crankshaft but clutch has much too much freeplay. Are these motors different?
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larry_from_md
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Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 28
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Friday, June 17, 2011 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well the new motor would need the tube inside the crankcase to put the oil over to that hole that feeds the turbo.Otherwise the engines should be near the same.They did make 2 versions of that engine that look alike but the gaskets are slightly differant.Ask a massy fergeson dealer or try www.ytmag.com and ask on the masy forem.
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steaming
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Username: steaming

Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2011
Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2011 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would be very careful before I fitted the turbo. I am not that familiar with the 6.354 but vaguely recall that Perkins increased the diameter of the gudgeon pins [ wrist pins] and changed the heat treatment of the crankshaft for the turbo engines and a few other things as well.The fuel pump may need different settings or something internal.
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michael morris
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Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2011 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 6354 engine which has been marinised,just recently it has lost all the oil pressure , it is not the sender or the filter/oil cooler.The oil level is ok. Can anyone suggest what the problem is,I dread the thought of having to remove the sump which is very inaccesible.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 463
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2011 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Maybe a broken shaft or key,or plugged intake.Not much you can get to with the pan on.
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RobinWhite
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Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Perkins T6.354 Turbo Intercooler for sale (Bread Box). It has been pressure tested. $500.00 In Long Beach CA. Email me at robin@thecatalinaexperience.com
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Michael Hanley
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Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was Looking for a water cooled exhaust manifold for a perkins 6.354 im in ireland any contacts?
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bradleys
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Username: bradleys

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2011
Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Greetings everyone! Hopefully y'all can help me out because none of the parts places i've contacted have got anything for me.

I have a substantial oil leak from the oil filter head on a T6.354 Perkins. I think I may be missing a gasket where the canister meets the filter head. The replacement filter element i ordered from another company (NAPA 1092) does not include an appropriate gasket, although the filter element fits. The filter type is a AC BY40 that takes element type AC74 according to the filter housing. The serial number on the engine is 354UX62880T.

Honestly, I would actually prefer to switch out the filter head to a screw on style if that is possible. Does anyone have any recommendations for a part that may work?


Thanks so much for your time and I appreciate any insight anyone may have.

Sincerely,
Brad
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 464
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes there needs to be a good seal there.The filter is a full flow filter and takes the full oil preasure on the sealing ring.I think the old massy fergeson 510 combines used those filters.There were several spin on filters used on later engines, some pointed up like the oliver 1850 and some pointed down,like the later 550 combines, some had larger filters like the later white 2-105. A hydrolic suppy/parts place might have a quad ring to fit.
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Raoul Birch
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Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2011 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a perkins 6.354 using it in a truck, need to know how injector timing should be set properly. there is a mark on the gears that turn the pump and one on the block, do these have to be aligned properly?
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 467
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2011 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes the marks need to be lined up.Line up the gear mark with the slot mark onthe drive adapter and flywheel tdc mark is on zero too.You allso need the number 1 piston comeing up on compression stroke.The pump needs to be i the right spot too.So remove the timeing window(2 bolts hold the plate on)and line up the F mark with the the scribe line on the snap ring.After installing the pump you turn the engine 2 full turns and see the marks still line up,small ajustments can be made by turning the pump.It can get rally long(wordy) if all the timeing gears have been off.
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Joe from toronto
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Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there I have a 1988 regency with twin horizontal turbos ht6.354 perkins both engines start great run great.But the port engine seems to have a lot of un burnt oil comming out of the exhaust. The port engine oil level does go down very rapidly. but there is no water in the oil. Does any one have any Idea of what could be? happening. Thanks
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 468
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well if you allso have lots of blueish smoke i would suspect the turbo.You cold loosen the bolts holding the exausht manifold on and run to see if oil pours out there.
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Peter Dickinson
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Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2011 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can some one give me the fuel consumption of a Perkins in line/6 cyl ST6.3544
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fishsouthbay
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Username: fishsouthbay

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you have the Turbo Perkins or the standard six. I have the 6-354-MGT and at six-seven knots we burn about three gallons an hour at nine knots we burn between 10 and 12 depending on seas.
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Percy
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Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 03:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My engine starts using quick start, idles for a few minutes then it switches off, when i rev it up and keep rev's high it doesn't switch off. injector pump has been rebuilt, it idles on the bench but not idling at low speed on the truck. need some help urgently.
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rich schmidt
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Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2011 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i own a perkins 654 4 any parts or info i ever needed were found at trans atlantic diesel
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robe
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Username: robe

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2011 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
I recently purchased an old fish boat with a 6-354m Perkins. Don't know much about it yet, but have found this site very helpful. The boat came with a photocopied workshop manual that I could scan parts of and post to this site if any one would find that useful.

Thanks,

Robe
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paulbanks
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Posted on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi. Saw your blog Robe. I have a 6-354.3 Turbo in my boat. Been looking for workshop manual for ages. How much to send a full copy of manual to Australia? Or scan & email? Email address is desperado@iprimus.com.au for communication. Hope to hear from you soon. Paul
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robe
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Username: robe

Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Paul,

Here is the first installment of the Perkins 6-354m workshop manual. I'll try to do a chapter at a time.

Robe
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robe
New member
Username: robe

Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi

Well,I can't post the workshop manual here as the first chapter I scanned is 3516kb and the max upload is 150kb.

Sorry

Robe

Look in your in box Paul.
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Susan Coakley
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a Perkins 4108 engine in my sailboat. Last week it lost oil pressure and oil was replaced (low level). Now, the oil pressures are running unusually low, but this dipstick level is high. In addition, we have noted a sea water leak (?from around the impeller shaft) with salt crystals noted around the area. Any ideas?
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raa
Advanced Member
Username: raa

Post Number: 46
Registered: 02-2007


Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2012 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Try changing the oil filter again and if you carry filers keep them in zip lock bags. I had a similar thing happen with out 4108 and a mechanic tipped me off worked! We put 17200 miles on our sail boat with many hours on the Perkins
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e.duncan
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Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Was wanting to know what I need to do to change the turbo to natural on a Perkins 6.354
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larry_from_md
Advanced Member
Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 35
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Firet remove the turbo and reconnect the intake and exaust,Then plug both holes that the oil lines are going to the turbo.Then you have to deal with the injector pump or not.Because the pump is ajusted for a higher output to match the increase in air the turbo supplies you might want the pump ajusted down for a natural engine. I have heard of guys skipping the last step and useing an engine as is as long as its not used hard.
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dsdman
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Posted on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Larry from Md, you seem quite the knowledgeable guy. I have a Perkins 6.354 in my sailboat. I just bought it and it is in need of some repair/upkeep/love. I would like to get someone like you in there to tell me what to do first, then second, then third Any suggestions I'm a ways north on the sassafras river in MD.
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larry_from_md
Advanced Member
Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 37
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can't do it now it's my busy season and i am recovering from surgery. I live in southern md.
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Maurice Schoff
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Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 03:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1971 perkins T6-354 on my boat. The top plate on the intercooler has cracks and leaks.
I am looking for a top plate or the complete unit.
Does anyone have experience with a weld repair ?.
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bill hansen
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Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2012 - 03:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i just got a steel boat with twin perkins turbocharged. the boat was bilt in 1989, think the motors are that year too. was told the motors are 125 turboed to 160. low hours on motors. what temp should they run at? they are runing cold now, 100 and 120 degrees.
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 490
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2012 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My guess would be 140 in salt water.With engines that new you should have the large waterpump with 2 thermostats on the top.One of them allso blocks the return hole so water can't recirculate.
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bill hansen
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Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 03:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have been told that the motors should run at 180 degrees. the boat is in Lake Erie.a friend has a perkins 4 cylinder in his tractor and it runs at 115 degrees.
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richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1007
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you are running in salt water you need heat exchangers on each engine in my opinion. If you run raw salt water cooling water over 143F you will quickly find salt build up in the water jackets serious heat problems develop. Your engine water jackets using a heat exchange can be protected from salt deterioration and with an appropriate anti freeze mix protected from freezing and excessive rusting. With thermostats in the heat exchangers your engines can run at the makers recommended temperatures.
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larry_from_maryland
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Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 491
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2012 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My tractors have 190f thermostats in them, if in fresh water 180 to 190 would be better than 120.
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nobby
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Username: nobby

Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2012 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Operators Manual states 168-197F and the service manual that I have states 190F as an expected temp.
I am going to assume that you have a heat exchanger and so yes 120 is way to cold. Of course Thermostats would be your first check but it is interesting to note that both engines are running cold the odds of thermostats on both engines being faulty? I have heard rumor somewhere in the past that the 6.354 was known to run cold but to be honest I take that with a pinch of salt. Talk to: http://britishmarine-usa.com/ he specialises in Perkins Marine Units.
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ocean37brighton
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Username: ocean37brighton

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2012
Posted on Wednesday, July 11, 2012 - 05:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am looking to purchase a complete header tank Heat exchanger for a Perkins 6.354M.
Contact Mick 07870728706
depravatio44@yahoo.co.uk.
Any help here greatly appreciated.
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Art Bacumo
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Posted on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Perkins Guys, My name is Art, I recently rebuilt a 1983 T6.354.4M Series Perkins Marine Diesel engine. My problem is in the Turbocharger. I can't fine a rebuilt kit and went to a Perkins USA West Coast dealer and they don;t have the rebuilt kit or the a new unit because as they say my turbo is already obsolete. I hope you guys can give me some info where to get it... Thanks
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larry_from_md
Advanced Member
Username: larry_from_md

Post Number: 45
Registered: 06-2010
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 06:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well thats a problem one of the turbo companys went belly up and you just can't get stuff for that brand.Most guys are replaceing them with other name turbos.
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Art Bacumo
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Posted on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Larry, My turbocharger is made by Holset its a model H1B and it is a water-cooled and mounted on a multicooler ( combined Header Tank, Heat Exchanger,Water cooled exhaust manifold and induction Manifold) I'll be happy to replace it with other brand name turbo's of the same spec and it will fit. any suggestion of a turbo brand outfit that can solve my nightmare.. Thanks
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kaptein@denhel.nl
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Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi i have a Perkins HT6.354 turbo diesel 150 HP
and i am looking for a water cooled exhaust with nr 37785592 and a extension exhaust manifold and turbocharger support nr 37766601
can some one help me, perhaps
Dennes Kaptein Holland
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wadesharp
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Posted on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi. Hope someone can assist with this. Have a Perkins 4108 (50HP) auxiliary engine. New problem yesterday: After running several hours, At a set throttle position (at 2000 RPM) speed runs up to 2500 and back down again by itself.Then it ran to 3000 and I could not throttle back.Shut engine down and restarted, ran ok then problem repeated. Is there a governor that may be malfunctioning ? Wade
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 496
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That normally happens when you get air in the injector pump.Often you have some restriction in the line and the pump sucks in some air or your pikup tube in the tank is sucking air.Look for leaking fuel filters or fittings as well.
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jmuller07
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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm running a little hot over 2200rpm i want to check the thermostats but cannot find them. T6.354 any help guys?

justin.muller07@gmail.com
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larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland

Post Number: 499
Registered: 07-2003


Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 07:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

In the top of the waterpump.
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lechwawa
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Username: lechwawa

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2012
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
please tell me basic dimension(l/w/h) for Perkins T6.354 turbocharged engine.
Regards,
Bogdan
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clydesider
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Username: clydesider

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
I'm the proud but inexperienced owner of an ex MOD harbour launch circa 1989 fitted with a Perkins 6.354. The engine had been neglected as the boat was out of the water for 8 years but is now back in service and seems to be performing well. When we serviced the engine prior to launch we used semi-synthetic oil. I now believe we should have used 10-30 mineral oil. Any views on this and any advice on what other things I should be aware of from an engine unused for so long.
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oslin04
Senior Member
Username: oslin04

Post Number: 69
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Clydesider, In the old days when we used to run these engines in Patrol boats we always used Castrol 20/50 miltigrade deisel engine oil, but other makes will be just as good, at one time some wiz kid had the bright idea of using 10/40 and that polished the bores in no time, so be warned :-)
Keith
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clydesider
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Username: clydesider

Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Keith,
Just the info I was looking for about the engine oil. Any other things I should keep an eye out for? She's only done 20 hours since launch in September and I tend to keep the revs between 1800 & 2000rpm which gives around 8 knots, although I read the optimum for this engine is 2400rpm. Am I likely to create problems by running below 2000rpm?
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oslin04
Senior Member
Username: oslin04

Post Number: 70
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Clydesider, We found if the Patrol boats were running slow for a period the engines would become smokey, we got over this with a short high speed run once every two or three days, Perkins comment was these engines are designed to run flat out, and while we did use them flat out as the service required normally we were running half throttle with no problems,but sometimes we would have to either run at low speed of just sit there with the engine running and no engine likes that
the engines did not use oil and were very reliable with only the normal servicing.
hope this helps
Keith
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donb
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Username: donb

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am looking for an aftercooler for a Perkins model # T6.354 s/n 33247.u77012814

I have this on a Trawler (boat)and mine is done. Does anybody know where i can get this item (new or rebuilt) I am currently in Fort Lauterdale Florida .
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leils01
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2013 - 04:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If anyone needs gaskets for perkins diesel I have a large selection available. Email me at simondelves3@gmail.com
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Peter Webb
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2013 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 74 Gulfstar 43' with two perkins 6-354 engines. My port engine began to rev up for no obvious reason. I am told to replace the clutch rings in the transmission. How do I tell what "Velvet Drive" transmission I am dealing with? The brass tags on both transmissions are unreadable.
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clydesider
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Username: clydesider

Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I ran my 11 metre ex-Mod launch powered by 6.354 non-turbo for six hours over two days last week and needed to top up oil by about 3/4 litre.
She seems to have a sweet spot of about 2000rpm which produces about 8 knots, but temp gauge reads 150f never reaching indicated optimum 180f.
No oil in bilges and apart from start-up little smoke, although occasionally white smoke after 30 minutes running. Any suggestions?
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robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 546
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My suggestion for all diesel engines with sumps of over 8 litres: centrifugal oil cleaner. Next best option: bypass oil filture using commercial paper towl roll as the filter media.

ht tp://perkinslubeanalysis.com/index_files/Page2176.htm (take out the space in "ht tp")

Engine using oil? Could be stuck rings and glazed bores, particularly if engine not run hard and regularly or oil not cleaned/changed regularly. Cold running engines just make it worse. Bypass/centrifugal filtration combined with hard, hot running will clean things out.

Restrict cooling water outflow to increase operating temps?

White smoke can be related to cold running or coolant leaks. Does it use coolant or does coolant smell contaminated? If always appears after 30 mins, does appearance correspond to increase in engine temps? Could be a sign that increased pressure in cooling system as temps increase is causing leakage into cylinders.

My 2p. ;-)
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clydesider
Member
Username: clydesider

Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 02:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Robert,
Good suggestions, your 2p worth is appreciated.
I will check thermostat and coolant levels then run at 2400rpm for 15 mins each trip.
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robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 547
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Would probably be a good idea to have an engine oil analysis done. I'd go with the centrifugal oil filter anyway, you'll save lots on oil and engine wear. If you keep the solids out of the oil it's carrying capacity is maintained and it picks up more particulates from the engine and that prevents stuck rings etc. Mann-Hummel has bought out all your centrifugal oil filter makers and all the US ones too I believe. There are some made in India that should be cheaper, but I have no idea about the quality.
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jeff cameron
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2013 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

can someone tell me whair the kill swich is on the eng of a 29hp perkins
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duke
Member
Username: duke

Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2010
Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2013 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm looking for an exhaust manifold and the after cooler on a 6.354HT Perkins. If you have one of these parts or both, or if you know where to purchase these parts please send an email. Both parts are available but I was hoping to find some used parts in good condition, probably not going to happen but thought I would try before I spend two grand or so.

Thanks, Scott
dukehere@live.com
(619) 456-1854
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clydesider
Member
Username: clydesider

Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 6.354 recently started producing white/grey smoke after running for 10 minutes underway.
The engineer removed the injectors and did compression test showing average 29-20 for 1,2,5 and 6, but 3 was 25 bar and 4 was 27.
Any suggestions?
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monark
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Username: monark

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2013
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Can any body help me by identifing the differance between a T6354 and a T6354.4
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nobby
Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 29
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Dot4 was a later model engine, Perkins increased the dot number as they changed the engine spec. In this case the engine block wise is basically the same but the T63544 had a higher horsepower
output and some ancillary changes:
Water Cooled Turbo (Holset H1) rather than the earlier non water cooled unit (Holset 3LD)
Combined Manifolds and Heat Exchanger referred to as either a MultiCooler or a ManiCooler. Earlier was a seperate Heat Exchanger and water cooled exhaust manifold.

Cheers
Nobby
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Capt Davel
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, July 28, 2013 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello Folks:
I recently purchased a 1982 Mainship 34 with a T63544M, U.K. 1981. I have both the handbook and workshop manuals. Can anyone suggest a supplier for raw water pump impellers? Also, I am losing about 1-2 pints of coolant on the internal side, with each 2-3 hours running time. No leaks that I can see? Any thoughts on this? Many thanks.
Cheers,
CAPT Dave Hill, USCG (Ret.)
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akjohnb
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Username: akjohnb

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2013
Posted on Tuesday, September 03, 2013 - 08:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am looking for information on my 6-354 turbo 165hp Perkins 1989. I tock my boat out last week and after 8 hours of running black smoke was coming out of the rear of the upper engine. all seams OK but the engine compartment is real oil smoked. Any ideas?
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boulou
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Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Might be the cold starting system (fuel feed into the air inlet) which stays open.
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Michael Bragg
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there,

I need to remove the head on a 1988 Perkins T6.354.4M (M240Ti) diesel engine. Built in the UK. Blown head gasket - pumping coolant out of the overflow reservoir - Rebuilt heat exchanger - Turbo housing is serviceable.

Here is my problem - There is a row of what looks like 12 point headed bolts on the left (H/E Side of the head). 9mm 12pt too small and 10mm 12pt too big. 5/16" 12 point too small and 3/8" 12 point fits fairly well but there is a little bit of play and I don't think this is the right size socket to use.

Does anyone out there know what size sockets I will need to get the job done? Are these spline bolts or 12 point or what? 11/32nds? 9.5mm (-do they even make that?)

Do I need a special tool or tools for this?

Anyway, this seemingly simple problem is keeping me from removing the head and I don't want to strip the head bolts...

Any help with this appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
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Len Morrison
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, October 06, 2013 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a steel cruiser with Perkins 6.354 engine. We were using the boat yesterday and the engine just started revving uncontrollably. Managed to shut it down and drifted for a while. Restarted it and it revved again. Again shut it down and left it for 10 minutes. Restarted it again and it was fine for the rest of the day.
I do have a fuel leak around the fuel intake flange on the injector pump. Havnt been able to stop that leak at this stage.
Any ideas
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piratesam
New member
Username: piratesam

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2013
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I recently purchased a 1973 Carri-Craft Catamaran Cruiser that still has the two original Perkins Marine Diesel 6.345 Turbo engines. They will turn, but definitely need a little work from someone who knows these engines. The one on the starboard side has 1904.3 hours and the port side engine has only 2350.8 hours. They have never been submerged, but have some minor surface rust from moisture. I am interested in selling them as soon as possible to anyone who knows and appreciates these engines. I am also planning to sell the v drives as well and would consider letting both engines and drives go pretty cheap if someone wanted to take it all at once.
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Mel Luff
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, December 21, 2013 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We are currently traveling aboard our Gulf Star 53' Motorsailor and have experienced a failure with our exhaust manifold. We are looking for a quick replacement exhaust manifold for a Perkins 6.354M naturally aspirated water cooled engine. It is the older model/configuration (circa 1970's). If you know where we can get one ASAP, please contact us at tinthecarib@gmail.com
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atavist36
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Username: atavist36

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2013
Posted on Tuesday, December 24, 2013 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A friend recently re-powered his tri-cabin, and asked me to sell the head from his 6-354, as it was rebuilt and had less than 300 hrs on it. As the motor was going for scrap I pulled the injector pump and some other jewelry from the block. Make me a reasonable offer and it's yours.
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Margaret Mastaj
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Posted on Thursday, January 02, 2014 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, Does anyone knows where I can get a Cylinder Head for Sabb 8HP model H&HG. I would appreciate the members help. I leave in London /UK.
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davemcdougall
Member
Username: davemcdougall

Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2014 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, we are doing up an old boat for a charity that provides fishing adventures. At present we have put the perkins 6.354 back together after reconditioning. We put a longer (genuine) pick up pipe on the oil pump for marine application. The problem is that the oil pump doesn't seem to be able to keep its prime for very long. We can prime it by removing the oil filter and turning the engine over back wards with the oil being added to the pump that way. If we crank the engine after this there is good oil pressure, however if we come back a week later it has lost its prime. I think we have a rotary pump in there. Does anyone know if we need a different kind of oil pump, eg a gear pump ? or maybe someone can shed a bit of light on what we might need to do to ensure the oil pump stays primed between starts.Any advice would be gratefully recieved.
Cheers,
Dave
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oslin04
Senior Member
Username: oslin04

Post Number: 75
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 04:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would suggest the pump may be worn, did you check the clearances on the rotor and ring when you rebuilt, also any sort of air leak on the suction side (pick up pipe fitting) will cause this problem and allow oil to run back.
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350_astro
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Username: 350_astro

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2014
Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I built a 354 out of a couple of forklift engines and had the same oil pump/prime problems. I installed a new oilpump, and checked all the suction connections. no go. my "fix" was to use the electric emergency brake motor and pump of a 700 series Ford. Pulled oil out of the pan, and put it into the gallery at oil pressure sensor. Used a push button to charge the gallery then hit the starter. Put it together in mid 1970 and three owners later it is still running. It is in a 1965 long wheel base Chev 1 ton panel.
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johnoxley
Senior Member
Username: johnoxley

Post Number: 118
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2014 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Twice had this problem. First was all oil in sump had turned to gel after topping up with a different oil (rare) and had to be scooped out through a crankcase door.
Second time was a flap of 'varnish' rising up and blocking the pump screen like a flap check (oil hadn't been changed for years).
Please describe how you know pump is losing suction as have also seen problems with faulty oil pump relief valve causing loss of oil pressure.
Also seen faulty oil pressure sender and gauge problem.
Most likely however, is worn pump or air leak in suction.
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Steve Brient
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Posted on Monday, June 09, 2014 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, I have a Perkins 6534 diesel on our boat, engine number is 354U45272
24 VOLT START SYSTEM, am wondering what year etc. his model is? Not having much luck with it, am after a starter motor
Steve
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350_astro
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Username: 350_astro

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2014
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2014 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Steve, what make starter? CAV? Delco would be my choice, they are avail and repairable . US made engine probably mid 70s.
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nobby
Advanced Member
Username: nobby

Post Number: 43
Registered: 12-2005


Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Old nomenclature for a CAV would be CA45 something like a CA45 24-3M i think there was a letter before the 24. Prestolite catalogue specs out a 870658Z for 24V that supercedes to a 1327A431. This crosses to the old Lucas number LRT658.
Really to be safe you can get a part number from Perkins dealer via the Engine number you quoted and then cross reference that with a starter motor supplier.
Rotation and tooth number etc is crucial the part numbers quoted above are 10 tooth CW rotation. I just had to replace starter and ring gear on a clients Perkins because someone had fitted the much cheaper industrial version which was incorrect tooth number and the pawl was axially to far out against the ring gear.
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Steve Brient
Visitor
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2014 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi "NOBBY" "ASTRO", thanks for the replies but after further investigation have discovered that the problem is not the starter motor but "hydraulic lock"- water in the top of the pistons, hence motor won't turn over!!! Am now looking for a good source for top end gaskets?
Cheer's
Steve
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Steve Brient
Visitor
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2014 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My next question is, what is the likely cause of water in bore on 3 cylinders? Engine is old 6354 was running fine 8 weeks ago but now seized and cant turn over, am slowly stripping head down, am stuck on one injector that wont come out(am assuming it is the worst effected cylinder) As we liveaboard it is not an easy fix, any advice greatly appreciated
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beard
Visitor
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Corroded wet exhaust manifold will allow water to drain into cylinders. Happened to me and prompted a complete top end rebuild. I chose to recondition everything including the head, injectors and turbo, but you should just need a new manifold.
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Thomas Perkins
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

loooking for an exhaust manifold for a perkins 4-236 marine engine. Any help would be great.
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Tom Perkins
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

looking for information on a perkins p-6 marine engine.....
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billy326
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2014 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Perkins documentation is spotty on horsepower.
Can I assume that any Perkins serial number that begins with TU is 200 horsepower?
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midnight_run
New member
Username: midnight_run

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2014
Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 03:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am trying to check compatibility. I currently have 1975 perkins T6.354 engines that have similar serial numbers of 354U339654TL. I have two other 1978 T6.354 engines available to buy that have TE20696U546550E type serial numbers. Is there a difference anyone sees here that will not allow me to swap parts between the two? I am not sure why my current engines do not begin with the engine family/type code like the other engines (TE) or why mine ends with TL. Its a screaming deal to have two spare complete engines but want to make sure the parts are compatible.
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Cambo
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am trying to locate an affordable old style Bowman heat exchanger for my T6.354. Very expensive nearly 3K here in Western Australia through Perkins dealer. Any suggestions?
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clydesider
Member
Username: clydesider

Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 04:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've just spent this summer cruising the west coast of Scotland, covering over 500 miles averaging 6.5 knts and Perkins 6.354 running at 1850rpm and burning around 25mm of engine oil per hour.
The last leg this week I was running ahead of the weather and ran the engine at 2,100rpm for four hours and burned around 300mm.
The following day I ran for four hours at 1900rpm and used over 1 litre of engine oil! There's no unusual amount of oil in the bilges, the engine temp stayed around 86.C and no unusual engine noise. Any idea what the likely cause of oil consumption is?
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woodboats
New member
Username: woodboats

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2014
Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2014 - 12:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi I have twin Perkins 6 354 slant 1972 or so my oil pressure is 50 to 65 one engine has been dropping off after ten min to 20 shut it down start it up oil pressure comes back up five to ten min goes back down. always comes back up keeps going back down anybody have an idea way
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Arthur White
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2014 - 04:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We have 2 Perkins 6.354 turbocharged engines in our 38ft Hartley, engine numbers are
3543U3400 T & 3543U2781 T
We are having trouble sourcing new water cooled manifolds for them, center exhaust outlet has 4 studs not 3 as in later models.
Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Peter Lenkeit
Arthur White
MV Koomaroo
Lake Macquarie NSW
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cdwolk
New member
Username: cdwolk

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2015
Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Greetings, my Dad in NY has twin turbocharged Perkins 6.354 on a 1972 32ft Luhrs flybridge cruiser. At 2000 rpms or more the stbd temp rises over190f, approaches 200f, and white smoke or steam shows from exhaust, while the port can run at 2300 and not go over 180 and clear exhaust. The thermostat opened when he boiled it but unknown opening temp. Please advise. Thank you,
Cliff
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greyman
New member
Username: greyman

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2015
Posted on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi. Just wondering if anyone knows much about these bowman heat exchangers. I am trying to rebuild the casing at the end but need to know the dimensions from a complete one for the length (without the endcaps on). If you have one please let me know. Thanks.

Bowman heat exchanger frontBowman heat exchanger rear
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antares
New member
Username: antares

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2016
Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2016 - 05:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello

I'm seeking a injector pump for Perkins T6534 .

Make CAV made in England
DPA 3266f538
Serial RO6394TW
DR88/800/0/2700
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rob_jones
New member
Username: rob_jones

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2017
Posted on Monday, January 16, 2017 - 06:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi, I have a perkins 6-354 in a Masters 34 cruiser. Have had a coolant leak from the intake side of the heat exchanger and when I removed the intake flange the O ring looked squashed flat and is causing the leak I hope. About to go find an O ring but is there anything else I need to check while its open? The coolant has now run out as it must be leaking at the base of the exchange pipes ! Is this normal?
application/octet-streamPhoto of heat exchange flange
Perkins heat exchange o ring (93.1 k)
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beaubrook
New member
Username: beaubrook

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2017
Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

New member here! Anyway I have a slant six Perkins marine engine which I believe is a 6.354 as the serial number is stamped in the block under the injector as M8430284. The engine runs fine. However I need to replace the oil dip stick and require a front seal. When i try and look up the serial number I don't find any matches and or numbers which look like they may be close, Any help would be appreciated!
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robbo1
New member
Username: robbo1

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2017
Posted on Friday, July 21, 2017 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1966 contra rotating Perkins 6354 engine fitted in my boat. The fresh water pump bearing failed so I removed the pump and sent it away for a rebuild. Before refitting it I noticed a small crack around the bottom locating stud and a slight depression in the water exit hole near it which will leak if I reassemble everthing as it is. My question is, does the pump mount on a backing plate fixed to the front of the block or is the face I am looking at the block itself?

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