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Definitely a Knock (Graymarine 109)...

Old Marine Engine » Gray Marine Gas Engines - 4, 6, and 8 cylinder » Definitely a Knock (Graymarine 109) « Previous Next »

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Eric Peggs
Advanced Member
Username: epeggs

Post Number: 41
Registered: 02-2017
Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Fellas,
We have a knock....
here is a link to the video....hopefully this one will work better than before: Try copying and pasting if a clickable link doesnt show up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Efh4XyXqbzKp6Py28

My dad took the head off and found this on the #1 cylinder.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MYxmi7F68YjEucD57

We always felt like we had a knock, but thought it was just ignition knock. So we adjusted the timing at 3/4 throttle and got most of that, if not all of that out. Then I moved onto the carb to try and tune it in at 3/4 speed. Thats when the knocking started REALLY REALLY BAD like in the video.

So we pulled the engine and are looking into to having it machined and re-sleeved. Has anyone ever had to do this to a 109 or similar engine? Just curious what to look for. If we bore it out, do we need to bore out all cylinders or just the one? Any advice is appreciated.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Efh4XyXqbzKp6Py28https://photos.app.goo.gl/MYxmi7F68YjEucD57
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J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 1394
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You won't know about the cylinders until it is disassembled and measured. I would suspect rod bearing problems, probably Babbitt bearings, crank would have to be ground and bearings re poured.
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Ned Lloyd
Senior Member
Username: ned_l

Post Number: 180
Registered: 08-2012
Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2018 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I donít see why just that one cylinder couldnít be sleeved. Maybe you will be lucky and it is just that one wrist pin that is bad and making all that noise. It sure did a job on that cylinder.
(I have a Stover. CT2 stationary engine with similar damage, but on that engine there is just a set screw that holds the wrist pin in place and keeps it from scoring the cylinder (or not if that set screw comes loose.)
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Eric Peggs
Advanced Member
Username: epeggs

Post Number: 42
Registered: 02-2017
Posted on Monday, November 19, 2018 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We took the engine to a machine shop here in town and he has the engine torn apart. Sounds like it was not rebuilt very well by the previous owner. My fault for trusting a 30 year old rebuild.

Crank is shot, beyond repair. Machine shop thinks that is what cause a wrist pin to break/come off and scratch the piston wall.

Currently waiting on a price for him to machine everything and rebuild. Its a one man shop so might take some time.

I have found a few online sources for part for the block using the cross reference of a Jeep Willys 6-226 engine, but I cant find a crank. Would anyone know where I could find a price for a crank?
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Ned Lloyd
Senior Member
Username: ned_l

Post Number: 184
Registered: 08-2012
Posted on Wednesday, November 21, 2018 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would check out places that service and rebuild older forklifts. I believe that Continental engine was used in lots of them. It shouldn't be too tough

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