|Stuart Engine P5M 10A568...
Post Number: 1
|Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 10:57 am: ||
I just recently purchased a wooden sailing Yacht,
with a Stuart Engine.
This is the detail on the engine plate:
I know nothing about engines, all I know is this particular little engine still turns, but has never fired for five years... I hope I can upload some pictures to let u see what its like, pretty rough lookin'
Post Number: 2
|Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 11:02 am: ||
Is it worth saving? shud I restore it?
will it cost an arm and a leg?
I like it it looks dinky...
But will it work and be reliable?
How old is it?
Any help and advice wud be great...
This is the little yacht it is in:
Malcolm Russell Ward
Post Number: 14
|Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 01:23 pm: ||
Thomas, that's not a rough engine, I've had rougher. When it is in condition, it will be very obliging and enhance the value of your boat to an enthusiast. A very good reliable shipmate. The boat must be a good sailer if the engine hasn't been used in all that time. See what the other Stuart fans say.
Post Number: 18
|Posted on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 08:56 am: ||
I think you might be on the wrong forum if you are looking for any advice that tells you that this engine is not worth it (unless of course it is from someone who is willing to take it off your hands )
I have heard others on other forums say that the only thing these engines are good for is sinking one for a mooring- but I think you know how we all feel about that here...
But seriously, it doesn't look too bad. Mine pretty much looks like that, and it runs.
I know/knew very little about engines untill I started to learn about my stuart turner (P55). Now I know a little more (a very little) and I well and truly love my engine (an aquired love)- just look at me brag about my polished up carby (http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3436/92062.html)
This wil be a very good engine to learn on and in my humble opinion a worthy one.
They are well made, with a lot of lovely cast brass, clean up well, and when in good order, and when understood, are very reliable, or so I have heard.
Do some reading through many of the threads here, there is a wealth of information at your fingertips, often spread through many different threads, not necessarily only the ones about your model of engine.
All your engine might need is some fresh petrol, some new sparks, and a good crank, and that could do it-
I am not saying that you should just try this now-
one of the experts will no doubt step in soon and tell you the process you should go about to get this thing started-
but essentially the engine could be (almost) ready to fire.
in the photo there apears to be a line of rust on the flywheel, perhaps signifying an old waterline where the engine could have been partially submerged? Do yo know if this ever happened?
But at least if the engine turns over then it would appear to me that this may not be a problem.
If you really are clueless to engines in general, pretty much like I was until recently, then these may beneficial to read
how a carurator works,
and how a two stroke works,
sorry if this is too basic for you, but for me I found them very enlightening.
Until someone more knowledgable steps in, my newbie advice would be,
1, check out your fuel tank, probably give it a clean, if you have a filter, change it, (there is no point in washing all that old gunk down the first time you try to run it).
2, check out your carby, carfully remove it, carefully (and taking notes) dismantil, give it a clean (carby cleaner), check your float and needle valve work properly, and check that the jets are free and clean (gently!). Clean out the air filter. Check you gasket(s) and if needs be replace (cut one to fit). (I have just had to do all this)
3, Get some new spark plugs, just take in your old ones and replace with new(on mine they are Champion L90C or equivalent- don't know if yours are the same) and replace. Put the new plug(s) in the lead, rest the spark plug against the engine block and turn the engine over to see if you get a spark. If you do, then I would assume that your magneto is working, and things are looking good.
If no spark, then there is a few threads that deal with this, I think you have to clean your points with a diamond nail file, then try again, and if still not, then something about realigning your points... ask someone else...
4, Check your oil in your gearbox. (possibly fill or drain and replace?)
5, -and safely you will never get to this point before someone else steps in to correct me and send you on the real right path-
put some fresh fuel mixed with the right oil (I think it is either SAE30, or two stroke oil for watercooled outboards- I stuffed this up at first) mixed at 50:1,
and then try to start it....
alternatively you could just chuck some fuel in now and give it a crank...
Someone will get to help you soon,
sorry about the rant.
Post Number: 19
|Posted on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 08:55 pm: ||
just thought I should add,
I have no doubt missed out a lot here, or said some wrong things.
Someone else will set you straight.
Post Number: 108
|Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 03:12 am: ||
Hi, I'm a little slow posting a comment this time. The engine is worthwhile restoring particularly if it turns over but check that there are no cracks in the water jacket by filling with water from the highest point on the engine - disconnect the pipe from water pump to exhaust cap (brass cap on top of the exhaust outlet) and then attached a clear hose and have it curved up vertically by inserting a pice of fencing wire. Then you can fill it with water and see the water level. If you don't lose water via a crack then proceed to the next step which is to remove the engine and clean out the water jacket by removing the oval cover plates and the expansion chamber cover plate and give it a good scouring inside a piece of stiff fencing wire or similar. Don't start this part unless you can do it in one day and have the gasket sealant to refix the cover plate and expansion chamber cover plate as the inside of the water jacket should be kept wet preferably with fresh water not salt to exclude any air that may trigger a very aggressive corrosion process. Once this has been done then start on the outside of the engine - but first remove the water pump and carby to make access easier. You will need a very good rust coverter and primer. PS: remove the crankcase drain plugs to check that there is no water in the sump and check gearbox dip stick to ensure there is no water in the oil and use gear change lever to ensure the gaerbox is free. Good luck.
By the way I've putting the finishing touches to a P5 that was in a boat that had sunk at the mooring then the engine was removed and sat in the open air for a couple of months. While the Amal carby (diecast construction) had disintegrated, the Lucas magneto mostly gone and the flywheel was vritually dissolving with graet sheets of cast iron spalling off, neither the engine nor the gearbox had a single drop of water inside. The engine restoration is now almost complete and apart from a replacement carby, maggy and flywheel I have only had to replace some external nuts and a couple of smaller studs. This P5 survived because of the superior engineering that is a hallmark of the Stuarts. As most Stuart enthusiasts will tell you when you have a running engine its a joy to behold - polish all the brassware and she makes the Blaxlands (most common Australian produced two stroke) look common.
|Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 10:16 am: ||
alhough your engine looks a bit worn around the gills I am sure with the above advise it will work well
out of interest your engine was built in June 1961 for Tucker Brown
If you need any help here in the UK let us know