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| Overheating on a volvo penta 2003turb... |
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gary
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 04:36 pm: | 
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Dear sir or madam
When I navigate the boat which is a shadow 26ft with a Volvo penta 2003t diesel engine at 25000rpm the boat runs perfect, if I run the boat at 30000rpm then after about 5 minutes the engine overheats, I was advised by a so called experienced and qualified marine engineer that the sea cock was blocked and needed replacing, this I had done, the overheating problem remained as before, he then said that the head gasket must be blown and said that the it would need changing and he also said the head would need skimming. I followed his advice and had that done. The overheating problem still exists. He now suggests that I replace the heat exchanger... as you can imagine I am totally shocked and depressed over this ridiculous situation that I find myself in. He is an approved Volvo penta dealer , surely I should some kind of compensation from this cowboy, your views on the overheating problem would be appreciated and
any ideas on what to do with this dodgy trader who is bringing Volvo's good name into disrepute and who is certainly giving marine engineers an unfair bad reputation
Yours hopefully
Gary |
dwilson
New member
Username: dwilson
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 09:35 pm: |
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Gary,
I assume you have serviced the pump/impeller on this engine?
If that is the case check the injector elbow on the exhaust where the raw water, after going through the heat exchanger, is pumped into the exhaust pipe and then overboard. This elbow gets blocked up with soot/exhaust/oil coke etc from the engine and ultimately can block the water outlet. No raw water circulation means no cooling of heat exchanger means overheating.
regards
David |
Donald McKonly
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, July 11, 2005 - 12:54 pm: |
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I have an overheating problem on my volvo penta 2003. At 2500 rpm's it might run 30 to 45 minutes before it will overheat. I ran it about 2 hours before it overheated at 1700 rpm's. I did the following: checked raw water strainer, check the impeller, checked the heat exchanger and cleaned it best I could, although it does have two of the tubes sealed off, checked and cleaned the exhaust elbow, checked the anti-siphon end, checked the thermostat, checked to see if the instument was reading correctly.
The water flow out the exhaust seems to be normal. Any idea on what the water temperature difference should be on the fresh water side from when it enters the heat exchanger to when it exits the heat exchanger? Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Don |
Yngve Levin
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2006 - 09:38 am: |
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Hi
even if is a little late. I have the same problem as Donald and Gary. I took apart every piece including the 2 pumps, exchanger, oilchiller, blew the pipes .... etc but nothing - not even a clue. But someone gave me this tip that I now will try;
There is an orifice (a rubber insert put into the water pipe exiting the turbo - it has a hole smaller than the pipe diameter to reduce flow) in the cooling water line exiting the turbo, this orifice moved down the line to the "tee" where it intersects the line exiting the thermostat thereby partially blocking flow back to the heat exchanger. I disassembled the piping pushed the orifice back to clear the "tee" and slightly krimped the pipe to prevent a repeat problem. |
toni_masriera
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, January 13, 2007 - 01:57 pm: |
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Hello,
I had exactly the same overheating problem caused by this small orifice flow restrictor. (The plastic moves forward in the pipe and blocks the exit to the intercooler)
This part is not in the technical documents issued by VOLVO; so is really difficult to imagine that.
Aat the end; many. many hours of trials, assembly and disassembly, and only ten minutes to solve the real problem (When you know this) |
Terry Ford
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, August 12, 2007 - 04:19 am: |
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I have had overheating when the impellor fell apart. The heat travelled up the exhast pipe and melted the end of the plastic water trap...right in the middle of nowhere!! My motor is a raw water cooled 2003 and now all fixed, but Does anyone know how hot the exhaust elbow should be under normal running. I can put my hand on it but not for too long. The new water trap box gets hot too, but water exit is ok and normal. Appreciate any help. I am in tropical waters by the way. |
tackdriver
New member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 09:02 am: |
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I have to say a huge thanks to Yngve Levin for that tip. It was exactly the same on my motor, and in addition the plastic thing was gummed up with crud. I drilled it out and bashed it back into place - fixed! All done on anchor in about 1/2 an hour. Best to have a spare o-ring for the exhaust end as this had melted on mine and was looking sad. Luckily there was a spare in the spares box.
Thanks again.
JMB |
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