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Palmer NR-2 #1903823 Barn Fresh

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Chuck Franklin
Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2013 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just picked up a NR-2, complete with transmission manifolds, and a unusual magneto. The engine turns over freely and has compression, no evidence of salt water damage and has not been molested. Would be interested in info regarding the magneto and transmission.
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Chuck Franklin
Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Palmer NR=2 photos




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Robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 574
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Congrats on an amazing find. Looks like you could even preserve the original paint after a good cleaning. Did you get the Atwater Kent coil box to go with your Type H timer (distributor)?
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Chuck Franklin
Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No coil box looks like some type of magneto I've never seen this type before. Note high tension wire from mag to timer, One other question, my NR-1 has a crankcase breather valve this engine only a open fill pipe any thoughts
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1061
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Chuck a word of friendly advise. Cut that exhaust pipe just aft of the 45 el that muffler weight on the exhaust studs on the cylinders can break their flanges and then you have a real problem. I would remove the nuts holding the flange to the exhaust manifold and then remove the 45 by breaking it loose from the flange. When in a boat that exhaust pipe would have been supported and even so it scares me to think how easy it would be for that weight with the engine running thrashing around. Get a piece of 3 in copper pipe to run up a coupled of feet and it will quiet the exhaust and not endanger the manifold. Never put a shut off valve in the water discharge line without having a piece of rubber hose between the shut off and the pump.pressure. That valve shut could break out a cylinder or exhaust manifold. The crankcase breather is typically in a boat a length of flexible metal tubing to a T in he side of the air oven around the the exhaust pipe. This permits the carb to act as PCV system sucking crankcase fume into the engine and out the exhaust pipe. Someone has put a plug in the oil fill over the flywheel on the Port side. You can easily make a short length of screen in a pipe plug which is only finger tight and then the carb can do its job.
The Atwater Kent distributor is a very tricky item so don't mess with it unless you really know what you are doing. It takes a special coil and they are around but hard to find. Keep in mind the points are normally open except for the moment the close and snap open to fire a plug. Don't mess with them unless you have really a good understanding how they work. You will need to find a coil for yours and don't mess them up thinking an ordinary coil is going to work. Read up on the page all about them under topics.
Unfortunately your magneto mounting seems to be missing. Also the drive shaft for it is missing that wire coming out of the drive shaft hole is the hot wire to the AW coil and doesn't belong in the shaft hole. The typical 1-1/4" Schebler Carb works great with the NR-2 series.
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Chuck Franklin
Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dick,

Thanks for the info and the suggestions regarding the exhaust piping, and the timer. Do you have any idea where I might find a mag bracket, mag and a coil set up? Also could you direct me to a ignition wiring diagram for the coil setup, can I use a regular old buzz coil?

I don't think I will do much to the engine other than clean it up a bit. If you know anyone who is looking for a engine I might trade or sell it out right.

Again thanks for your help.
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1063
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Chuck you need the gears under the mag drive cover. I don't know if they are both there. The small gear fits on the end of the inlet camshaft and the large gear fits on a shaft which seems to be missing. This shaft has a drive coupling for the magneto. In this case you need a magneto for a four stroke, 2 cylinder engine. The mag needs to fire at 90 degrees. The mag bracket will have to be cast as I only have one left. Once it is cast you will have to have it machined. You cannot use a typical buzz coil with that AW distributor. You probably could find a AW coil on the internet but my suggestion is find a Cuno timer which fires at 90 degrees and use a couple of typical buzz coils. Either a two cylinder Cuno at 90 degrees or a four cylinder Cuno and take two 90 degree contacts and ignore the other two contacts. Remember the Cuno will rotate counter clock wise with the flywheel running counterclockwise which is normal for the NR and ZR series engines. To reduce compression push the compression release aft and pull forward as soon as the engine starts. Don't run with the compression release pushed aft as it will erode the bump on the camshaft.
The AW coil for use in automobiles is the same as for the NR/ZR and similar engines.
The difference may be a "Kick" switch on the automotive coil but so what. The ôKick switch in many cases give Center off, Battery power for starting and Magneto for running. In this case the car magneto is a low tension mag not one for generating a spark. "Kick" comes from the act of using a foot to push the switch on the face of the coil box
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Chuck Franklin
Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2005
Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dick,

Thanks for all the info. I took the muffler and exhaust manifold off per your recommendation. The water jacket in the exhaust looks good some rust but o salt damage that I can see.

At this time I would like to trade the engine for something smaller, I am getting too old to be moving a engine this size around. If you know someone who is looking for a NR-2 in good condition please let me know.

Again thanks for all your help.

Chuck
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1064
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well it is a big hunk of iron but to save it fill the cast iron water jacketed parts with antifreeze and you can forget worrying about salt or fresh water rust. To cut down on the amount of anti freeze I put thin brass shim stock dams in the connections to the bronze water pump etc. I know the number of folks who want to mess with these bigger engines is limited but they seem to turn up. Take out the drain cocks for the cylinder water jacket and put in a short length of 1/8" NPT. Slip a couple of feet of 3/8" vinyl plastic tube over each one and you will have an indicator if leaks develop. Will Keep you in mind for the magneto drive parts. The typical 2 cylinder mag firing at 90 degrees will work just fine with this engine.
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Robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 581
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Get it steam cleaned and bolt some heavy duty wheels or castors on the beds. It will seem more attractive after that!

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