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Palmer M60 Transmission

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David Offenstein
Posted on Monday, May 31, 2004 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 1970 Palmer M60 in my sail boat. I have noticed the last couple of years neutral seems to be harder and harder to find. The transmission is out now to replace the rear oil seal. I have inspected it well, I can't find anything wrong with it, no gray sludge in the case, no metal filings in there either, its very clean. Are there clutch disc's in there that could be sticking??? I am at a loss.
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Richard Day
Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2004 - 07:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There is a clutch and it is adjusted by loosening the slotted hex head screw on top of the adjusting collar just forward of the cone that the shift lever moves forward to engage when forward is desired. Just back off the sloted hex head screw enough so that the projection on its end will clear the slots in the adjusting collar. If the clutch is slipping then turn the collar to the right (facing forward towards the engine) one or two slots at a time. If it is not releasing turn the collar to the left a slot or two at a time but in either direction don't lose where you start from so you can go back and start over. Once you are satisfied tighten the sloted hex head screw but make sure the projection on the end of the screw is in a slot and not on top of the collar. Keep in mind when the clutch is properly adjusted the shift lever snaps into and locks in forward drive. You don't get that same feeling in reverse drive. If the reverse slips throw the operating lever in reverse and then tighten up the nut on the brake band but take you time and don't make any of these adjustments too aggressively move a turn and try to see if the brake band holds the whole drum from rotating when the shift lever is held in reverse. There should be a spring wire that holds the reverse adjusting nut in position. Keep in mind that the reverse brake band holds the main drum so the internal sun and planet gears will begin to operate. The engine rotation is not changed by these gears but the prop shaft is reversed in rotation as long as the drum is held from rotating. When you go in reverse the cone moves forward and the levers riding on it are released which in turn releases the clutch plates so there is no drag from the clutch plates.
Simarly when in forward you don't want the reverse brake too tight as it will place a drag on the drum and cause overheating. It should be very obvious if you have it too tight as the drum won't rotate easily. Keep the oil level about an inch below repeat below the tail shaft at the rear of the clutch. make this check when the reverse gear is installed in the hull as the angle of the engine mounting will effect the level. Too much oil can cause overheating and damage the seal. Use non-deteregent #30 oil and it should be changed according to the maker every six months. The important operating lesson is once you have the adjustments correct learn the feel of the shift lever the way it pops in forward but has to be held in reverse. This will warn you if some change occurs in the reverse gear that needs to be looked at. The OXKB reverse gear has a very good reputation and it sounds like someone over aggressivly tightened the forward collar which keeps the clutch plates from releasing.
Believe that most replace the rear seal without removeing the reverse gear from the engine. Just slide the prop shaft aft and remove the seal houseing and flange at the aft end of the reverse gear. Pump out the oil first of course. Hope this helps. This isn't rocket science and a dedicated amatuer is a lot better than an indifferent professional is my motto.
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Ben Sidaway
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am attempting to rebuild a 1970 Palmer M-60. The block was completely clogged with scale. I am trying to find a head gasket (copper and fiber sandwich) to put back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 322
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Why not fresh water cool it and get a standard IHC CUB Loboy head gasket?

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