Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

M60 Bench test

Old Marine Engine » Palmer Engine Co » M60 Bench test « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ben Sidaway
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

After a fairly extensive rebuild, Im getting ready to start my M60 on the workbench to check all my gaskets etc. Being a first timer with this, Im looking for any tips on how to do this. Water supply will be from a big bucket and hosepipe but what is the easiest way to get fuel to the fuel pump? Will the pump pull gas out of tank, do I need the tank above the pump and use a siphon and gravity to get the gas to the pump. How about wiring since the harness is still in the boat? What is the best way to hook up a battery to start the engine? Do I have to worry about the exhaust coming out of the manifold; the exhaust pipe is still in the boat? Will just deflecting the water from the manifold outflow away from the engine do? Finally, I will have to plug up the oil pressure connection I suppose. I was planning to make a wooden bung and silicon it in, not particularly elegant but would it work? Anything else I should be thinking of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Karl Burton
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't think on a fresh engine that a bung and silcone would work to hold the oil pressure connection - why not just get a little threaded pipe plug and screw that in? On the other hand, you probably want to know that you really are developing oil pressure - might be better to go to an auto parts store and buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure guage and connect that up.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 385
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The manifold jacket water does not enter the exhaust passages on the P-60 so just run a hose from the exhaust manifold outlet back into the supply bucket and until it gets hot you should have no problem with water spraying all over the place. Make sure you prime the pump so you don't run it dry and ruin the impeller. As soon as it is wet it lubricates itself from the water.
Get a 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Thread) male plug for the oil pressure outlet on the oil filter housing or just get a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge with a male 1/8" NPT fitting on the back and you will be able to read the oil pressure as Karl suggests. Electric fuel pumps will pick up fuel but be careful with an open fuel supply as a spark can set off the fumes. The electric ciruit consists of a a heavy battery cable to the frame of the engine for negative and a heavy battery lead for the positive to the starter terminal on the starter relay. Use a piece of approx 14 gauge wire to the battery connection on the coil and fuel pump from the positive connection to the starter relay. The fuel pump should be bolted to the engine to complete its electrical circuit. Disconnect the alternator electrical connections to avoid burning out the alternator/regulator. To engage the starter simply take a short piece of wire from the Positive connection on the starter relay and momentarily touch it to the relay solinoid connection on the side of the relay. This will start the starter and as soon as the engine starts remove the wire. Personally I use clip leads for low current temporary wiring as it is a lot simpler that wireing up connections. You must however have battery starter cables that are approriate for the high starting current. Keep in mind a 12 volt car battery is a very dangerous exsplosive item if you short it out through careless or inapproriate wiring. Don't have the engine on the bench have it on the floor well clear of anything else as it may want to thrash about if the throttle isn't almost closed. I would get someone who has experience with what you are trying to do other wise you can do real damage and get badly hurt.
You have been warned so don't blame me if you run into trouble.

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page

Home | Classifieds | History | Technical | Links | Store | About Us | Email
&copy 2005 OldMarineEngine.com, P.O. Box 188, Forest Dale, VT 05745-0188 • Phone: 802-247-4864 • All rights reserved.
   Marine Engine Seloc Repair Manual Lookup Tool

marine gas engine repair and restoration