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1930s classic half cabin needs a motor

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Laurie Aubert
New member
Username: laurie

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 05:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can anyone advise me the best solution to power an old 19 ft clinker half cabin. I purchased the boat 10 years ago with its original Blaxland twin 5/7 txrr. I never found the motor easy to start even after servicing, and was persuaded to replace it in 1999. Now some 8 years later still no motor and the boat having been out of the water since '99 is finally being restored. Should I be Reinstalling a txrr (mine has probably rusted through), or is it more economical and reliable putting in a Diesel? Someone suggested looking at a new electric pod motor to power the boat.
I may be planning on selling this boat and want to capitalise the best way but also want to do the best for the boat.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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David Stott
Member
Username: david_stott

Post Number: 21
Registered: 06-2005
Posted on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie, Blaxlands can be easy to start and reliable and many are used regularly in restored or original condition. An electric starter may help on the twin and these are available. If You dont want to pursue this then a modern diesel is best for reliability and performance. Electric will have power and range issues. If you keep it inboard and internal cumbustion you keep some authenticity.
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Laurie Aubert
New member
Username: laurie

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 05:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks David for your suggestions.I do like the idea of an electric starter. The frustration with my Blaxland 5/7 was trying to belt start it in the confined space of the half cabin.Assuming my 5/7 txrr might be beyond repair,do you,or anyone else on this site, have any idea what a professionally restored Blaxland 5/7 txrr might cost if available? Also approximate cost of electric start and F/R gearbox?
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David Stott
Member
Username: david_stott

Post Number: 22
Registered: 06-2005
Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Duck Flat wooden Boats in Mt Barker South Australia sell electric starters for Blaxlands. Others on this site will be able to help with a reconditioner.
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Todd Vidgen
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie,Blaxlands are really reliable and easy to start.I have one in one of my putters,its also the fastest boat in the Davistown Reggatta,Boyd Myres and myself refurbish and restore putter motors.
The blaxland gear box I personaly think is not a
very good gearbox as it uses dogs to engage fwd and reverse,and this puts a large strain on the crankshaft when engaging,also the electric starter
(dyno start)takes a percentage of power from the
engine when running,and when you have only 5>7 hp
to start with in a 19ft boat,you dont want to
waste any of it
Simplexes and claes are good engines for your boat
as they both come with fwd/rev boxes.
Simplexes parts are still available new and they
also come with a dyno start option
Claes are more difficult for parts
We have a selection of engines up here and can
part trade or rebuild your motor
However changing a motor can also mean changing
Prop.propshaft,couplings,stern glands,engine bearers,exhaust system,engine box,floor etc
If the boat is going to stay in the water I would
recomend fresh waster cooling/heat exchanger as
Simplex blocks are $1851-00 and blaxlands are
$650-00 each approx
If you have any ? dont hesitate to call
Boyd (02)43692218 Todd 0416 270962
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Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay

Post Number: 22
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie,

There is a second hand Blaxland Twin for sale on eBay at the momemt.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190206943154&ssPageName=AD ME:B:SS:AU:1123

If I had some money I bid for it myself :-)

Cheers,

Bruce.
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Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne

Post Number: 255
Registered: 09-2002


Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 05:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie .....have you considered a Stuart Turner,either the twin or single P55 or P5 respectivly.Easy starting ,either Dynastart or hand crank.
I have several ,the original engine in my small half cabin was a P55 ,I have taken it out and will put in a R3m [one and a half HP] .
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John Roseland
Advanced Member
Username: rosey

Post Number: 36
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have attached the name of a fellow in South Australia who had a Blaxland engine for sale last year. I don't know if it is still avaliable. May be worth a call?

His email is:
Julian.DuBois@optusnet.com.au
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Laurie Aubert
Member
Username: laurie

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Bruce for the ebay reference. I had a bid on that 5/7 Blaxland Twin but I just got beaten in the dying seconds.My first time on Ebay! It sold for $760.00. No clutch or petrol tank,however it looked and sounded pretty good for that price, even allowing for freight, S.Aust to Sydney. From your experience, do they turn up on ebay often?
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Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay

Post Number: 23
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes Laurie, from time to time, but not usually at that price. Usually up around the $2000 mark for fully reconditioned ones. Good luck. Bruce.
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Laurie Aubert
Member
Username: laurie

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks David, Todd, Bruce, Peter and John for your kind help and advise. My shipwright convinced me to let him try to get my seized Blaxland Twin going before I go searching for a replacment motor. With its badly rusted bottom half crankcase plate,and no movement in fly wheel I didn't hold much hope for it, after all it's been seized for over 7 years. He was able to slowly free up the fly wheel by removing the water pump, cleaned the carby and fuel tank, then finally at the end of the day to my surprise, it started with relative ease. My faith has been restored for this charming old motor. However a stumbling block. How do I find a replacment for it's completely internally rusted exhaust muffler? Is it a case of needing to have one made and if so, what might one cost? Also could someone advise me the correct oil to pour in the sumps?
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Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay

Post Number: 29
Registered: 03-2006


Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie,
There is a bloke on the NSW Mid North Coast called Brett Jacobs who supplies new parts for Blaxland Engines but I don't have his details at hand just now.
As far a engine oil is concerned, there was a comlete discusion devoted to this subject last year. Refer the following link.

http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3452/101555.html
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Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay

Post Number: 30
Registered: 03-2006


Posted on Friday, March 28, 2008 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie,

Try Brett Jacobs of Blaxland Chapman Marine Co., his phone number is (02) 6558 3182.

Good Luck.
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Todd Vidgen
Member
Username: todd_vidgen

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Laurie ,For the intial charging of the sumps a 1/4 of a pint(150 ml)of SAE 50 weight oil per sump
This can be added when assembling motor,prior to
fittng blocks,or if motor is already assembled
by running motor and allowing a slow stream of oil
to flow past the air horn this will be sucked into
the sumps,be mindful to do this in a well ventilated
shed/area as huge quantities of smoke are produced
(nice carbon footprint eh ?)
Also dont have anything like the wifes laundry around the area (potential sabotage of smoke making device imminent)
What we do now when building new motors is to
drill and tap a 3/8 gas thread into the top plate on each cylinder on the opposite side to the inlet/exhaust ports. Then fit a brass plug,
this way you can easily drain your sumps without
risking a bilge full of gunge by vacuum pump it out,then just pour the oil in and refit the plug with some "stag" jointing paste or loctite 243
NO THREAD TAPE
For the fuel mix of 32:1 we use a good quality
TCW3 rated marine two stroke oil.Do not use air
cooled two stroke oil as this is made for an
entirely different situation and engine failure will occur
I know there are some people who insist on using
the old 90 weight oil at 32;1 . But times and oils
have changed and we now have better stuff,so we
may as well use it as it performs better,with less
wear on parts,less smoke(carbon foot print again)
Less fouling of plugs.Also the new oils stay in suspension in the fuel insted of dropping out.
Be mindful that your fuel has a finite life
Only mix and store what you need for 1 or 2 months
as it goes off and creates problems
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Laurie Aubert
Member
Username: laurie

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Bruce for Brett Jacob's ph.# and the detailed "oils" discussion link. That discussion was so informative.
Todd, thanks for going to the trouble of typing out your handy advise. Having read the discussion on oils, I was about to go with Valvoline EPG220 mineral gear oil,however I like your reasons for prefering TCW3 rated marine 2 stroke oils, particularly if they are likely to produce less smoke, so I will give it a go. Cheers to you both.

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